Aups, Provence, France
Nestled in the lush landscapes of Provence, Aups is a charming hilltop town renowned as France's "truffle capital." Located just 20km south of Lac de Sainte-Croix and near picturesque villages like Salernes, Villecroze, and Sillans-la-Cascade, Aups offers authentic Provençal charm. While famous for its winter truffle market (November-March), the town's medieval streets, ancient fountains, and beautiful sundials make it worth visiting year-round.
Parking in Aups
The most convenient parking is at Place Marin Bidaure (P; GPS: 43.627020, 6.224378), adjacent to the Collegiate Church of Saint Pancrace and tourist office. Additional street parking is available along Avenue Georges Clemenceau, which begins at this square.
Parking in Aups is generally easy outside of truffle season (November-March) and summer weekends. The central lot at Place Marin Bidaure offers free parking with no time restrictions - a rarity in Provence. For larger vehicles, there's additional space along Avenue Albert Ier. The tourist office provides excellent free maps showing all parking options and pedestrian routes through the old town.
Touring the town
Begin your exploration at the 16th-century Collegiate Church of Saint Pancrace, notable for the French Revolutionary motto "Liberty Equality Fraternity" carved above its entrance - a fascinating contradiction of church-state separation. The church's mix of Gothic and Renaissance architecture reflects Aups' complex history.
This striking juxtaposition dates from 1792 when revolutionaries repurposed churches as "Temples of Reason." The church's interior features beautiful 17th-century altarpieces and an unusual wrought-iron pulpit. Free guided tours are available in summer, revealing hidden details like medieval fresco fragments beneath later plasterwork.
From Place Marin Bidaure, head north along Rue Gabriel Péri to the fork (A; GPS: 43.628145, 6.224375). Turn left to discover the 12th-century Saracen Tower and Porte des Alpes (B; GPS: 43.629187, 6.223882), one of Aups' original medieval gates. Continue to the Simon Segal Museum (C; GPS: 43.629787, 6.224048), housed in an 11th-century convent with an intriguing history from religious house to kindergarten.
The Saracen Tower offers panoramic views over the Argens valley - climb the narrow staircase for the best photos. The Simon Segal Museum showcases rotating contemporary art exhibitions alongside permanent displays about local history. Don't miss the beautifully preserved convent cloister, where you can still see medieval carvings on the capitals.
Follow Avenue Victor Maria toward Porte des Aires, passing the 19th-century Chapel of Notre Dame de Délivrance (D; GPS: 43.629432, 6.225152), built on castle ruins. Re-enter the old town through Porte des Aires (E; GPS: 43.628995, 6.225645) and continue to Place Louis Gauthier with its 16th-century clock tower (F; GPS: 43.628662, 6.225065), before returning via Rue du Marché.
This circular route covers Aups' key historical sites in about 1.5 hours at a leisurely pace. The Chapel of Notre Dame de Délivrance marks the site of Aups' medieval castle, destroyed during the Wars of Religion. Place Louis Gauthier is the perfect spot for a coffee break - try Café de la Tour with views of the clock tower. Along Rue du Marché, look for artisan shops selling local lavender, olive wood crafts, and truffle products.
Truffle Capital of France
While we visited outside truffle season, Aups' reputation as a gourmet destination remains year-round. The Saturday morning market (year-round) offers excellent local products including honey, olive oil, and goat cheese. Several shops specialize in truffle products like oils, salts, and preserved truffles - perfect edible souvenirs.
For the full truffle experience, consider visiting between November and March when the weekly truffle market fills Place Foch with the distinctive aroma of "black diamonds." Local restaurants like Le Petit Jardin create special truffle menus during this period. The tourist office can arrange truffle hunting demonstrations with local rabassiers (truffle hunters) and their trained dogs.
Where to Eat in Aups
Don't miss these excellent dining options:
- Le Petit Jardin - Michelin-recommended Provençal cuisine (€30-50)
- La Table de Pablo - Creative seasonal menus (€25-40)
- Le Café de la Tour - Casual lunches on the square (€15-25)
- La Truffière - Truffle specialties (seasonal)
Most restaurants close between 2-7 PM. For picnic supplies, visit the excellent Maison Bremond for artisanal cheeses and charcuterie. The weekly market (Saturday mornings) offers fresh local produce perfect for al fresco dining with views of the surrounding hills.
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