Entrecasteaux, Provence, France
The charming little town of Entrecasteaux is idyllically situated in the very heart of "Green Provence", a region celebrated for its lush landscapes and authentic Provençal charm. It lies conveniently close to several other delightful villages, including the historical Carcès, the vibrant Lorgues, the artistic Salernes, and the picturesque Cotignac. This strategic location places it approximately 50 km southwest of the coastal city of Fréjus, making it an excellent base for exploring both the inland beauty of Provence and the Mediterranean coast. Entrecasteaux offers visitors a tranquil escape into the authentic Provençal way of life, surrounded by rolling hills, vineyards, and olive groves, characteristic of this verdant part of the Var department.
Parking in Entrecasteaux. The garden
Upon arriving in Entrecasteaux, visitors will find a convenient parking lot (1; GPS: 43.515008, 6.241345) ideally situated right next to the impressive castle. After parking your car, you can immediately immerse yourself in the beauty of the castle garden (A; GPS: 43.515152, 6.242831), a masterfully designed space laid out in the intricate form of a maze. At the very heart of this captivating garden, you will discover a beautiful fountain, unique for its central rock formation and an elegant astrolabe-like sculpture, adding a touch of celestial wonder to the terrestrial design. This remarkable garden was conceived by none other than André Le Nôtre, the legendary landscape architect renowned for his iconic work, including the magnificent gardens of Versailles. As you gaze towards the fountain, you'll also notice a dignified statue of Admiral Antoine Bruny d'Entrecasteaux, a celebrated researcher and sailor who was born in this very town in 1737, standing as a proud tribute to a local hero and explorer.
The castle
The castle (B; GPS: 43.515525, 6.243008) of Entrecasteaux stands as a formidable and impressive fortress, its origins tracing back to the eleventh century. Over the centuries, this robust structure underwent significant enlargements and renovations, with major additions in the fifteenth, sixteenth, and eighteenth centuries, each era leaving its architectural mark and contributing to its grand scale. Visiting the interior of the castle is a unique experience, as tours are exclusively possible with a knowledgeable guide, typically commencing at 16:00. During the month of August, a popular time for visitors, additional morning tours are often scheduled at 11:30 to accommodate demand. Ticket prices for this insightful journey into history are 8 € for adults, while students and children can enjoy the tour at a reduced rate of 4 €. These guided visits provide fascinating insights into the castle's long history, its prominent residents, and its architectural evolution, making it a truly worthwhile stop for history enthusiasts.
Following the charmingly steep street that winds its way alongside the castle, you will soon arrive at the striking Gothic Church of Saint-Sauveur (C; GPS: 43.515222, 6.244263), a magnificent edifice dating back to the fourteenth century. Its ancient stone and architectural details offer a serene contrast to the more imposing castle. On the opposite side of the castle, a particularly rewarding experience awaits at a dedicated vantage point (D; GPS: 43.515370, 6.243989). From this elevated position, you can enjoy expansive views that include, among other interesting sights, an intricately designed stone bridge gracefully spanning a nearby stream, as well as several charming old farm buildings nestled within the Provençal landscape. The castle itself holds another fascinating secret: it is equipped with a special place—a well-preserved cellar (E; GPS: 43.515627, 6.243228) specifically designed and used to store ice in centuries past, highlighting the ingenuity and practicalities of historical life in this region. This entire area around the castle provides a rich tapestry of history, architecture, and natural beauty, offering a comprehensive glimpse into the past of Entrecasteaux.
Gastronomy in Entrecasteaux and Green Provence
The gastronomy of Entrecasteaux and the "Green Provence" region is deeply rooted in authentic Provençal culinary traditions, characterized by its reliance on fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. This verdant part of the Var department, distinct from the more arid coastal areas, offers a rich bounty from its fertile lands, including olives, grapes, aromatic herbs, and a variety of vegetables and fruits. The cuisine here is typically wholesome, flavorful, and a true reflection of the Mediterranean diet, often paired with the excellent wines produced in the surrounding vineyards.
What to Try?
- Aïoli: A classic Provençal dish featuring a vibrant garlic mayonnaise served with steamed vegetables (like carrots, green beans, potatoes), hard-boiled eggs, and sometimes poached cod. It's a flavorful and communal dish, especially popular on Fridays.
- Tapenade: A savory spread made from black olives, capers, anchovies, and olive oil, often served as an appetizer with crusty bread. It perfectly captures the essence of Provençal flavors.
- Olive Oil: The region is rich in olive groves, producing high-quality olive oil. You'll find it generously used in most dishes and often available for tasting or purchase directly from local producers.
- Local Goat Cheese (Chèvre): Numerous small farms in the area produce a variety of fresh and aged goat cheeses, which are delightful on their own or in salads.
- Herbes de Provence: The aromatic herbs that define Provençal cooking (rosemary, thyme, savory, oregano, marjoram) are integral to most dishes and can be found in abundance.
- Rosé Wine: Entrecasteaux is located in the heart of the Côtes de Provence AOC, one of the world's most famous rosé wine regions. A crisp, dry rosé is the quintessential local drink and pairs perfectly with the regional cuisine.
- Melons and Fruits: Depending on the season, you'll find an abundance of fresh, ripe fruits like melons (especially in summer), peaches, apricots, and figs.
Where to Eat?
Being a smaller village, Entrecasteaux will offer a more intimate selection of dining options, typically focusing on authentic Provençal cuisine. Nearby villages like Lorgues and Cotignac will provide additional choices.
- Restaurants in Entrecasteaux: Look for small, family-run restaurants or "auberges" within the village center, especially around the castle area or the main square. These establishments will likely offer traditional regional dishes made with local ingredients. Given the size of the village, options might be limited to one or two primary establishments, so checking reviews or asking locals upon arrival is often the best approach.
- Les Berges de l'Issole: While specific current restaurant names can change, look for establishments with names that suggest a focus on local cuisine and a pleasant setting, perhaps near the river or with a view of the castle. Many local restaurants in such villages offer a "plat du jour" (dish of the day) that highlights seasonal produce.
- Nearby Villages (Lorgues, Cotignac, Salernes): For a wider range of choices, consider dining in the larger neighboring towns like Lorgues, which has a more developed culinary scene with various restaurants and a bustling market. Cotignac also offers charming eateries with outdoor seating.
- Local Markets: Visiting the weekly market (check local schedules, typically Tuesday morning in Entrecasteaux itself or nearby villages on other days) is an excellent way to sample local produce, cheeses, charcuterie, and prepared foods perfect for a picnic in the castle garden or countryside.
Dining in Entrecasteaux and "Green Provence" is an experience of authentic flavors, fresh ingredients, and the relaxed pace of rural Provençal life, offering a truly delightful culinary journey.
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