Arles - Old Town, Provence, France
Arles is a stunning historic town in Provence where Roman ruins blend seamlessly with medieval architecture. Located along the Rhône River, it's famous for its exceptionally preserved Roman amphitheater that still hosts events today, as well as for being a key location in Van Gogh's life. We'll guide you through all the essential sights, starting with practical parking information and moving through the ancient monuments that earned Arles its UNESCO World Heritage status.
Parking in Arles
Parking in Arles' historic center requires some strategy, but there are several good options. The most convenient is the Lamartine parking lot (1; GPS: 43.681282, 4.632270) right by the northern entrance to the Old Town, though it's often full on busy market days (Wednesday and Saturday). When this happens, we recommend the Parking du Centre (2; GPS: 43.675022, 4.629623) near Boulevard des Lices, which has multiple covered levels and is opposite the lovely Jardin d'été gardens.
For stress-free parking, arrive before 10 AM during peak season (April-October). The Lamartine lot fills quickly because it's free and close to the amphitheater. Consider downloading the PayByPhone app for cashless payments at paid parking areas. If you're staying longer, the free Parking des Lices (GPS: 43.6735, 4.6289) is just a 15-minute walk from the center and usually has space. Electric vehicle charging is available at Parking du Centre.
Roman amphitheatre in Arles
The Arènes d'Arles (A; GPS: 43.678401, 4.630680) is one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world, built around 90 AD to seat 20,000 spectators. Today it still hosts bullfights and concerts - you can almost hear the roar of ancient crowds when you walk through its underground corridors. Tickets cost €8 (€6 reduced), and we recommend entering from the north side where you'll find the main ticket office and a grand staircase leading up to the seating areas.
What makes this amphitheater special is how remarkably intact it remains after 2,000 years. The two levels of arches create perfect acoustics, and the upper tier offers panoramic views over Arles. Don't miss the small museum explaining its history and restoration. Evening visits are particularly magical when the stones glow in the sunset. If you're visiting in summer, check the schedule for concerts or traditional courses camarguaises (bull games without killing the bull). Nearby, the surrounding streets are packed with charming cafes and shops worth exploring.
Ancient Roman theatre
Just a short walk from the amphitheater, the Théâtre Antique (B; GPS: 43.676918, 4.629211) dates back to 12 BC, making it about a century older than its famous neighbor. Though only two columns remain from its original ornate stage wall, you can still appreciate its grandeur and imagine performances that once entertained up to 8,000 Romans. Today it hosts the annual Arles Festival with music and theater under the stars.
The theater's most famous artifact - the beautiful Venus of Arles statue - was discovered here in 1651 and now resides in the Louvre. What's remarkable is how good the acoustics still are - stand on the stage and whisper to test it! The €8 admission (€6 reduced) includes access to the underground cryptoportiques - cool, vaulted galleries that were part of the Roman forum. During summer evenings, the stone seats become the perfect spot to watch performances or just enjoy the atmosphere as the sun sets behind the remaining columns.
Arelate: the Roman days
Each August, Arles transforms during "Arelate - journées romaines d'Arles", when the town celebrates its Roman heritage with reenactments, workshops, and performances. We were lucky to see authentic gladiator combats and demonstrations of ancient crafts that brought history to life in the very streets where Romans once walked.
This week-long festival is Europe's largest Roman reenactment event, with hundreds of participants in authentic costumes. You can watch legionnaires drill, try writing on wax tablets, or taste Roman-era recipes. Kids love the gladiator school where they can learn basic moves with foam swords. The highlight is the nighttime torchlight procession from the amphitheater to the Roman theater. Many events are free, though some workshops require booking ahead at the tourist office. It's an unforgettable way to experience Arles' ancient roots.
Towards the Place de la Republique
Walking from the Roman theater along Rue de la Calade, you'll reach Place de la République (C; GPS: 43.676440, 4.627618), Arles' main square dominated by the 17th-century Hôtel de Ville with its impressive vaulted ceilings and statues including the Venus of Arles replica. Don't miss the unique medieval staircase on the Plan de la Cour side where justice was once administered.
This elegant square has been Arles' civic heart since Roman times. The centerpiece is a 4th-century obelisk that originally stood in the Roman circus. Tuesday mornings see the square transform into a vibrant Provençal market with local cheeses, olives, and crafts. The Town Hall's interior courtyard features a fascinating sundial and the original weights and measures from when Arles was an independent republic. On hot days, the square's fountains provide refreshing relief, and in December it hosts a charming Christmas market around the illuminated obelisk.
Church of St. Trophime
The former cathedral of St. Trophime (Cathédrale Saint-Trophime) is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, built between the 12th and 15th centuries when Arles was at its peak. Its famous portal features an exquisite tympanum depicting the Last Judgment, while inside you'll find three naves with beautiful vaulted ceilings, medieval tapestries, and altar sculptures.
St. Trophime's portal is considered one of the finest examples of Provençal Romanesque sculpture. Look closely to spot biblical scenes and mythical creatures carved into every surface. Inside, the 4th-century sarcophagus in the north aisle is particularly noteworthy. Free guided tours (available in summer) reveal fascinating details like the tiny demon carved near the altar. The cathedral still holds regular services, and hearing Gregorian chant here is a special experience. At Christmas, don't miss the traditional Pastrage ceremony with shepherds in local costume.
The Cloister of St. Trophime
Adjacent to the cathedral, the cloister (entrance at GPS: 43.676408, 4.627827) was built between the 12th-14th centuries and features stunning galleries decorated with biblical scenes. The entrance is separate from the church - look for the doorway in Place de la République, then go upstairs to buy tickets (€4.50 normal, €3.50 reduced).
The cloister beautifully blends Romanesque and Gothic styles - the north and east galleries feature 12th-century carvings full of symbolism, while the later south gallery shows more delicate Gothic tracery. Don't miss the famous "monkey capital" showing monkeys mimicking human activities. The upstairs exhibition explains how the cloister was nearly demolished in the 19th century before being saved. Morning light creates perfect conditions for photographing the intricate carvings. Combined tickets with other monuments are available and offer good savings.
The Obelisk
At the center of Place de la République stands the impressive obelisk (Obélisque d'Arles), a 20-meter pink granite monument that originally stood in Arles' Roman circus in the 4th century. It was moved to its current location in 1676 and now forms part of a fountain decorated with bronze sculptures by Antoine Laurent Dantan.
This ancient obelisk has quite a history - after the circus fell into disuse, it was lost for centuries before being rediscovered in 1389. The four bronze dolphins at its base represent the Rhône River. Local tradition says rubbing the obelisk brings good luck - you can see where countless hands have polished certain spots. At night, subtle lighting highlights its elegant form. During Christmas season, the square around it transforms with festive lights and decorations, making it even more photogenic.
Other buildings
Opposite the cathedral, the former Church of Sainte-Anne now serves as an exhibition space, while the square also features the beautiful former post office building with its ornate 19th-century facade. These architectural gems showcase Arles' layered history from medieval to modern times.
The Église Sainte-Anne hosts excellent photography exhibitions, particularly during the famous Rencontres d'Arles festival (July-September). Nearby, the Hôtel Dieu's neoclassical facade hides an important Van Gogh connection - this was the hospital where he was treated after cutting off his ear. The former post office building (now a bank) features stunning Art Nouveau details - look up to see the beautiful ceiling in the main hall. These buildings create a fascinating architectural timeline spanning nearly a millennium.
Rue de la République
Walking south from Place de la République along Rue de la République, you'll pass beautiful historic buildings like the Hôtel de la Lauzière (GPS: 43.676415, 4.626210) with its twisted columns, the Museon Arlaten museum (currently closed for renovation), and the Médiathèque (D; GPS: 43.676077, 4.625259) housed in a former 16th-century hospital with exhibition spaces and a pleasant café.
This elegant street is perfect for shopping and people-watching. Stop at Chocolaterie Arlésienne for lavender-infused chocolates or browse the Provençal fabrics at Souleiado. The Museon Arlaten (reopening 2025) will showcase fascinating exhibits on Provençal traditions. The Médiathèque's courtyard is a peaceful oasis with free WiFi - grab a coffee from their café and enjoy the Renaissance architecture. On summer evenings, street performers often entertain along this lively thoroughfare.
Place Antonelle and the Rhone
Continuing to E (GPS: 43.677125, 4.624386), Place Antonelle offers lovely views of the Rhône River. From the nearby bridge (GPS: 43.678435, 4.623549), you can admire Van Gogh's famous viewpoint before heading east along the riverbank toward the Thermes de Constantin (F; GPS: 43.679002, 4.626975), the well-preserved Roman baths described in our separate article.
This quiet square offers one of the best spots to watch the famous Arles sunset over the Rhône, just as Van Gogh painted in "Starry Night Over the Rhône." The riverside path leads to pleasant walks through the Roquette district, known for its colorful houseboats and weekend flea market. In summer, you might see traditional flat-bottomed boats (négo-chin) moored along the quay. The walk to the Roman baths takes about 10 minutes and passes several excellent riverside cafés perfect for a break.
Place du Forum
The lively Place du Forum (G; GPS: 43.677632, 4.626975) was the heart of Roman Arles, with fragments of a 1st-century temple still visible. Today it's surrounded by cafés and restaurants, including the famous Café Van Gogh, and features a statue of Frédéric Mistral, the Provençal poet who championed local culture.
This atmospheric square comes alive in the evenings when the cafés spill out onto the pavement. The two ancient columns embedded in a hotel wall are remnants of the Roman forum that once stood here. Café Van Gogh recreates the setting from his painting "Café Terrace at Night" - sit outside with a pastis for the full experience. On summer nights, the square often hosts free concerts or pétanque tournaments. Don't miss the nearby Espace Van Gogh (free entry), the hospital courtyard he painted during his time in Arles.
Rue du 4 Septembre
Returning north along Rue du 4 Septembre, you'll see the historic Grande Boucherie (H; GPS: 43.678741, 4.628203) - an 18th-century slaughterhouse turned cultural space - and the 12th-century Church of Saint-Julien (I; GPS: 43.679241, 4.629705). If you parked at Parking du Centre, return via the beautiful Jardin d'été (J; GPS: 43.675637, 4.629860), a 10,000 sqm garden with fountains and shaded paths perfect for relaxing after your tour.
This route takes you through one of Arles' most authentic neighborhoods. The Grande Boucherie now hosts contemporary art exhibitions in its striking vaulted halls. The Church of Saint-Julien, though rarely open, has a beautiful Romanesque facade. The Jardin d'été is a true oasis with century-old trees, a playground, and often free outdoor concerts in summer. The garden's two fountains provide refreshing mist on hot days, and there are plenty of benches for tired feet. It's the perfect peaceful ending to your exploration of Arles.
Where to Eat in Arles
Arles offers fantastic dining options showcasing Provençal cuisine. For authentic local flavors, try these excellent establishments:
- L'Atelier Jean-Luc Rabanel - 2-Michelin star innovative tasting menus (from €120)
- Le Gibolin - Cozy wine bar with tapas-style local dishes (€15-25)
- La Gueule du Loup - Excellent bouillabaisse near the amphitheater (€30-40)
- Café Van Gogh - Historic café from the famous painting (great for drinks)
- Le Criquet - Traditional bull meat specialties (€20-30)
Most restaurants close between lunch and dinner (2-4 PM). Reservations are recommended, especially during the Rencontres d'Arles photography festival (July-September). For foodies, don't miss the Saturday morning market on Boulevard des Lices for local cheeses, olives, and fresh produce.
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