Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Provence, France
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is a quintessential Provençal town, nestled in the heart of western Provence. It is perfectly situated, approximately 20 km northeast of the historic Roman city of Arles and the same distance south of the papal city of Avignon. This charming town is steeped in history and culture, known for being the birthplace of the famed physician and prophet Nostradamus.
The town's legacy is also profoundly linked to art, as it was here that the brilliant painter Vincent Van Gogh stayed at the psychiatric clinic in Saint-Paul de Mausole. During his time here, he created some of his most iconic and emotionally powerful masterpieces. Adding to its historical richness, the outskirts of the city are home to the impressive remains of the ancient Roman town of Glanum, offering a journey back in time to antiquity.
Parking in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Navigating the town by car is straightforward, with a few key parking lots available just outside the historic core. Both of these are important for us and are conveniently located next to the historic town center.
The first one is located near the church at Boulevard Marceau (1; GPS: 43.788398, 4.829941), and the other one is located at the Jean Jaures Square, next to the D5E road (Avenue Durand Maillane) leading to the Glanum (2; GPS: 43.785902, 4.831213).
Both parking areas are very practical, with the second one being particularly useful if you plan to visit the ancient Roman site after exploring the town center. The streets within the old town are narrow, so parking on the periphery is always the best option.
The Old Town
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence has a very beautiful old town, where strolling the narrow, cobbled streets is a pure pleasure. The historic center is surrounded by a ring consisting of four streets (Boulevard Gambetta, Boulevard Marceau, Boulevard Victor Hugo, and Boulevard Mirabeau); it is further protected by the strict development of the buildings.
After walking down the Avenue de la Resistance street and passing the Collégiale Saint-Martin church (A; GPS: 43.788748, 4.830280) on the left side, we come to the square at Rue Lafayette street. There you will find the headquarters of the local authorities (B; 43.788697, 4.831634), and this is also where the Provençal markets take place. We then turn left on Rue Jaume Roux and turn left again on Rue Carnot, to get to the Favier Square (C; GPS: 43.789259, 4.831116), nicely shaded by a canopy of chestnut trees, where an interesting fountain is located. Here you can find some historic buildings such as Hotel de Mistral de Montdragon from the sixteenth century, which is now the Museum of Alpilles. Another historic building is the Hotel de Sade, which was built after Agnès Hugolen de Fos from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence married a male representative of the family of de Sade (the wedding took place in the fifteenth century, so it is not about the Marquis de Sade of the eighteenth century, although it is the same family). Both buildings can be visited.
Each of the streets of the Old Town is different, it's really worth taking the time and leisurely stroll them. If you are tired, you can relax in Grand Café Riche (D; GPS: 43.788405, 4.830204) - there's really a very good coffee :).
Nostradamus
As mentioned above, in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence was born Nostradamus - a famous author of the prophecies, and also a doctor, astrologer and mathematician. You can see the house of his birth - it is located at Rue Hoche at number 6 (E; GPS: 43.788201, 4.830571). Unfortunately the apartment itself can not be visited - on the outer wall exists only a plate with the appropriate information. In addition, the town has also a fountain with a bust of Nostradamus. Much more Nostradamus' memorabilia can be found in Salon-de-Provence, where he spent the rest of his life (we also visited this town).
Fête de la transhumance
"Fête de la transhumance" in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is a unique and spectacular festival that celebrates the seasonal movement of livestock. It is a deeply rooted tradition in this rural region, symbolizing the journey of flocks to their summer pastures.
In the morning, more than 2,500 sheeps, goats and donkeys parade around the old center of town with their shepherds and the dogs. An ocean of sheeps! This vibrant and lively event is a must-see, offering a fascinating glimpse into the agricultural heritage of Provence.
Transhumance is the seasonal movement of people with their livestock between fixed summer and winter pastures. In montane regions (vertical transhumance) it implies movement between higher pastures in summer and lower valleys in winter.
Vincent Van Gogh in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Vincent Van Gogh stayed in a psychiatric hospital of Saint-Paul de Mausole from May 1889 to May 1890. During this time he painted about 150 paintings, and many of them became masterpieces. It showed there the landscapes of places where he stayed - Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and surrounding hills of the Alpilles.
The Saint-Paul-de-Mausole hospital is located on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. It was already mentioned by Nostradamus, who knew it as a Franciscan monastery. Adjacent to hospital buildings is located the archaeological area of the ancient Greco-Roman town Glanum. The Mont Gaussier, which can be seen from here, as well as Alpilles mountain range can be found on some paintings of Van Gogh. The hospital is still a functioning center for treatment of mental illnesses.
The place where Van Gogh stayed, can be visited (the entrance: F; GPS 43.776670, 4.833164). The room of the artist has been restored, and the area, which in his time was a field, became now a garden. Here you can find reproductions of his most important works. The museum is available seven days a week, the admission price is 5€. Cars can be parked across the street in the parking lot next to the beautiful triumphal arch of Glanum (3; GPS: 43.775928, 4.831146).
Glanum
Glanum is a remarkable ancient town, abandoned by the Romans in the year 260. It is located on the slopes of Alpilles hills, about a kilometer south of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. It is especially known for two preserved Roman monuments from the first century BC: the mausoleum of Julia containing the scene of the battle of Zela, where Julius Caesar uttered his famous words "veni, vidi, vici", as well as the triumphal arch of Glanum which was built in approx. 20 AD (it's the oldest arch in France). These two attractions are free and can be found at some distance (GPS: 43.776447, 4.831188) from actual Glanum (G; GPS: 43.774684, 4.832006), for which the admission is paid (normal ticket 9.5€, reduced ticket 7.5€).
Gastronomy in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
The culinary scene in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is a true reflection of the rich, sun-drenched terroir of Provence. The town is famous for its lively market and the high quality of its local produce, particularly its olive oil.
What to Try?
- Olive Oil: The region is covered in olive trees, and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is renowned for its exceptional olive oil. You can find it in many local shops and markets.
- Tapenade: This classic Provençal spread made from olives, capers, and olive oil is a local specialty and perfect with a fresh baguette.
- Local Produce: If you are in town on a Wednesday, don't miss the large Provençal market. You can sample local cheeses, honey, fresh vegetables, and fruits.
- Alpilles Wines: The vineyards of the Alpilles hills produce excellent rosé, red, and white wines that pair perfectly with the local cuisine.
Where to Eat?
The old town's narrow streets are lined with charming restaurants and bistros, from traditional French eateries to sophisticated fine-dining establishments. Many of them offer beautiful outdoor seating in quiet courtyards or on picturesque squares, creating a perfect atmosphere for a memorable meal.
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