Les Baux-de-Provence, Provence, France
Perched majestically on a rocky outcrop in the heart of the Alpilles mountains, Les Baux-de-Provence stands as one of the officially designated "most beautiful villages in France." This spectacular location in Provence, not far from the charming town of Saint-Remy-de-Provence, attracts over a million and a half tourists annually, ensuring a lively atmosphere no matter the season. Despite the constant stream of visitors, the village maintains a small residential community of around 500 people, who are mostly involved in running the various shops, art galleries, restaurants, and museums that cater to the tourists.
A bit of history
The history of Les Baux-de-Provence is a dramatic tale of power, conflict, and rebirth, stretching back over a thousand years. Its strategic position made it a formidable stronghold, and for centuries it was the seat of the powerful Lords of Les Baux, who controlled a vast territory of nearly 80 villages and strongholds across Provence. The village's fortunes waned after a period of intense conflict, leading to its decline. However, a fascinating twist in its history occurred in the 17th century when the village was gifted to the Grimaldi family of Monaco, a link that endures to this day, with Prince Albert II holding the ceremonial title of Marquis of Les Baux.
In the Middle Ages the town was managed by one of the main noble families in Provence, owning 79 towns and fortresses. However, it was also a witness of many battles and repeated target of attacks. In the mid-seventeenth century, the village was transferred to the Grimaldi family of Monaco. The current holder of the title Marquis of Les Baux is Prince Albert II. After the French Revolution, the village was annexed to France, but was slowly devastated and at the end of the nineteenth century had only about 400 residents. In 1821, one of the geologists discovered there a red rock, rich in aluminum hydroxides and called it bauxite.
The town began to come back to life after the Second World War, with the development of tourism. Today it has been carefully reconstructed and offers a unique opportunity to explore the medieval buildings, streets and a castle of the Lords of Les Baux. Next to the village there are also huge halls, carved into the rock, which used to be a source of building stone. They have now been adapted to computer-controlled great multimedia shows.
Parking and sightseeing
Exploring Les Baux-de-Provence is a journey best taken on foot, as the village’s pedestrian-only streets are part of its charm. While the village is a car-free zone, ample parking is available in designated lots at its base. The walk from the parking area up to the village is a pleasant part of the experience, offering stunning views of the surrounding Alpilles landscape. This approach allows you to fully immerse yourself in the ambiance of the village from the moment you arrive, ready to explore its historic heart without vehicular traffic.
You are not allowed to enter the town by a car, but there are many parking lots around it where you can leave the car. Two of them located at the main entrance to the village are mostly occupied (1; GPS: 43.745975, 4.796837 and 2; GPS: 43.746273, 4.796519) - the alternative is to leave car on the road (3; GPS: 43.745554, 4.795358), and then to enter the town through "Eyguières Gate" (A; GPS: 43.744116, 4.794607) - that's what we did. We go the Rue de l'Église À l'Anc Mairie and then stroll narrow streets, visiting numerous souvenir shops and art galleries. Following places are worth seeing:
- The twelfth-century church of St. Vincent (B; GPS: 43.743565, 4.794373),
- Chapel of the Brotherhood of the White Penitents (C; GPS: 43.743573, 4.794101) from the seventeenth century, inside decorated with frescoes by Yves Brayer (1974) depicting the Christmas tradition of Provence,
- The only remnant of the Renaissance building - beautiful window called "Post Tenebras Lux" (D; GPS: 43.743757, 4.795095),
- The Piglet Mansion (Hôtel de Porcelet) (E; GPS: 43.743720, 4.794441),
- Mansion of Jean de Brion (Hôtel Jean de Brion) (F; GPS: 43.744211, 4.795321),
- Mansion de Manville (G; GPS: 43.743896, 4.795305) - the most beautiful Renaissance building in the town built in 1571 by Claude de Manville,
- And last but not least, the Castle of Les Baux.
The Les Baux Castle
The Castle of Les Baux, perched atop the village’s rocky peak, is a magnificent ruin that once served as the impenetrable fortress of the Lords of Les Baux. Though much of it lies in ruins, its scale and strategic location are incredibly impressive, offering a tangible sense of its former power. The castle grounds are an open-air museum, where you can explore the vestiges of the keep, towers, and walls. A visit here is an immersive historical experience that allows you to walk through the remains of a truly epic fortress with an unmatched view of the surrounding landscape.
At the end of the Rue du Chateau there is the entrance to the castle (H; GPS: 43.743402, 4.794743). Admission: 8 € (9 € between April 1 and September 30 on weekends and holidays) normal ticket, 6 € (7 €) reduced (for children up to 17 years of age, unemployed, and groups of over 20 people).
Visiting the castle will take several hours. First, you can go to the vast plane, located on the edge of the cliff, where you find the ruins of a windmill (I; GPS: 43.741794, 4.793101). You have there a great view of the south-western regions of Provence (for example Arles). You can also participate in the show presenting the siege machines (J; GPS: 43.742352, 4.794437) or see fights of medieval knights (shows are included in the ticket price). Then you can move to the main buildings of the castle and climb up the walls or towers (K; GPS: 43.743445, 4.796121 or L; 43.744571, 4.796409) to enjoy more views of Provence.
Gastronomy in Les Baux-de-Provence
Les Baux-de-Provence is not just a treat for the eyes; it is a paradise for the palate, offering a rich gastronomic experience rooted in Provençal tradition. The village is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, making its cuisine a celebration of local produce, fine wines, and, most importantly, world-renowned olive oil. The culinary scene ranges from charming cafes serving regional snacks to prestigious, Michelin-starred restaurants, providing an array of dining options for every visitor.
What to Try?
- Olive Oil: Les Baux Valley produces a protected designation of origin (AOC) olive oil known for its fruity and robust flavor. It is a must-buy souvenir.
- Provençal Cuisine: Enjoy classic dishes like "Daube Provençale" (beef stew), "Ratatouille," and fresh goat cheese from local farms.
- Wine: The region is known for its excellent red, rosé, and white wines under the "Les Baux-de-Provence AOC" label.
- Almonds and Honey: The area's almond trees and thyme-covered hills yield delicious nougat and fragrant honey.
Where to Eat?
The village's narrow streets are lined with a variety of restaurants, from casual bistros with shaded terraces to elegant fine-dining establishments with panoramic views. For a truly memorable experience, consider dining at one of the top-rated restaurants, some of which are located just outside the village. Booking in advance is highly recommended, especially during the tourist season, as these places are very popular. You can also visit local boutiques to sample and purchase olive oil, wine, and other regional specialties.
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