Arles: Old Town around Amphitheatre, Provence, France
Join us as we explore Arles' historic center, starting from the northern entrance and making our way to its magnificent Roman amphitheater. This walking tour takes you through charming Provençal streets, past medieval gates, and alongside architectural treasures that tell the story of Arles' rich 2,000-year history. Perfect for first-time visitors, our route combines ancient Roman heritage with vibrant local culture.
Parking in Arles
The most convenient parking for this route is the Lamartine lot (1; GPS: 43.681276, 4.632467) near Porte de la Cavalerie. If full, head to Parking du Centre - details in our Old Town Arles guide. The Lamartine lot fills quickly on market days (Wed/Sat), so arriving before 10 AM is advisable.
This spacious parking area offers easy access to Arles' northern entrance. Payment is via ticket machines or the PayByPhone app. From here, it's just a 2-minute walk to Porte de la Cavalerie. Electric vehicle charging stations are available, and the lot is monitored for security. For extended stays, consider the cheaper Parking des Lices (15-minute walk south).
Gate de la Cavalerie
Our journey begins at Porte de la Cavalerie (A; GPS: 43.681081, 4.631310), a 12th-century gate rebuilt in Renaissance and 18th-century styles. Named after the cavalry (La Cavalerie) quarter, this was one of Arles' main medieval entrances, part of the town's defensive walls.
Notice the gate's evolution - the lower section shows medieval stonework, while the upper arches reflect later renovations. This strategic entrance controlled access from northern Provence. The small guardhouse (now gone) once collected tolls from merchants. Today, passing through this gate feels like stepping into Arles' living history, with immediate views of charming cobbled streets ahead.
Amédée Pichot street
At the intersection with Rue Amédée Pichot, admire the 1880s fountain (B; GPS: 43.680422, 4.631157) commissioned by Pierre-Amédée Pichot. Above it, Paul Balze's Raphael-inspired medallion depicts Poetry - a fitting tribute to Pichot, a renowned translator. The adjacent Café Le Cavalier offers perfect people-watching.
This elegant fountain combines practical purpose with artistic beauty - locals still fill water bottles here on hot days. The allegorical medallion reflects Arles' 19th-century cultural revival. Across the street, Café Le Cavalier serves excellent espresso and homemade limonade. Their shaded terrace is ideal for regrouping before continuing to the amphitheater.
The amphitheater of Arles
Following Rue Voltaire past leafy Place Voltaire (C; GPS: 43.679801, 4.631181), the gleaming white Arènes d'Arles comes into view. Circling the arena via Rond-point des Arènes reveals the adjacent Roman theater ruins and lively cafes perfect for a break.
This 2,000-year-old amphitheater could seat 20,000 spectators for gladiator games. Today, it hosts bullfights and summer concerts. The surrounding area buzzes with activity - browse artisan shops for Provençal fabrics or stop at Le Café van Gogh for their famous tarte tropézienne. Evening brings magical illumination of the ancient stones.
Interesting buildings
Our route passes three architectural gems: the 17th-century Collégiale Saint-Charles (D; GPS: 43.677193, 4.630224), former Franciscan monastery; Hôtel de Luppé (E; GPS: 43.677555, 4.630080) with its Florentine palace facade; and neoclassical Hôtel Barrême de Manville (F; GPS: 43.678241, 4.630110), inspired by Parisian elegance.
These buildings showcase Arles' diverse heritage. Saint-Charles' simple exterior belies a stunning Baroque interior (open for concerts). The Luppé mansion reflects Italian Renaissance influence from Arles' wealthy merchant era. Hôtel de Manville now houses the prestigious École Nationale Supérieure de Photographie - peek into its courtyard for contemporary art displays.
The church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Major
Our final stop, Notre-Dame-de-la-Major (G; GPS: 43.675875, 4.632058), is worth the detour for its panoramic views and unique Camargue cowboy heritage. Originally consecrated in 452 AD, this Romanesque-Gothic church was rebuilt after WWII bombing and hosts the annual Gardians' horseback blessing on May 1st.
While often closed, the church opens for special events and the Saturday morning Provençal mass. The terrace offers stunning views over the Rhône and Alpilles mountains. Nearby, Le Galoubet restaurant serves excellent bull steak - a local specialty. For photography enthusiasts, sunset here is magical, with warm light bathing the ancient stones.
Where to Eat Along the Route
Refuel at these excellent spots:
- L'Entrevue (near the amphitheater) - Modern Provençal cuisine (€25-35)
- Le Criquet - Authentic bull meat dishes (€20-30)
- La Pergula - Great salads and pastas (€15-25)
- Le Café van Gogh - Perfect for drinks and people-watching
Most restaurants close 2:30-7 PM. For quick bites, try Boulangerie du Forum for fougasse (Provençal flatbread) or Glaces ArleSienne for lavender ice cream.
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