Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, Provence, France
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is the vibrant capital of the Camargue area, a unique region of wetlands and lagoons in the Rhone river delta. The town is located about 1 km east of the mouth of the Petit Rhône branch, approximately 30 km from the historic towns of Aigues-Mortes and Le Grau-du-Roi, and about 35 km south of the Roman city of Arles. This charming town is famous for its beautiful sandy beaches, iconic white-washed houses, and its deep connection to the distinctive Camargue landscape and culture.
The town's spiritual heart is the fortified church, which serves as the destination for a major annual pilgrimage. Every year, this pilgrimage attracts thousands of pilgrims from the Romani community to honor their patron, Saint Sarah, creating a unique and deeply spiritual event. This blend of natural beauty, cultural tradition, and religious devotion makes Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer a truly special and multifaceted destination in southern France.
Parkings in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Finding a parking spot in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is relatively easy, as the town is well-equipped with several large parking areas to accommodate visitors. In fact, many of them are free, which is a great advantage for tourists.
One popular and quite large, free parking area is located right by the lake Étang des Launes (1; GPS: 43.452784, 4.424674). Its major advantage is that after parking your car, you can walk just a few blocks and you're already in the town's center or at the bustling port. A similar convenient option is the parking lot at Avenue Gilbert Leroy (2; GPS: 43.451710, 4.432644). However, both these large parking lots can fill up quickly—just arrive late or on a weekend, and you might find that all the spots are already occupied, so arriving early is always a good idea.
But don't worry—the town also has a truly massive, free parking lot (3; GPS: 43.454342, 4.433391) that is almost always available, even on the busiest days. While it's located a bit farther, about 800 meters from the center on the eastern outskirts, the short walk is very pleasant and ensures you'll find a spot without any hassle. This large-capacity parking is a reliable alternative during peak season when the closer lots are full.
The port, the beaches and the trip to the mouth of the Rhone
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is blessed with a vibrant port and beautiful, expansive sandy beaches, including Plage des Arènes, Plage du Crin Blanc, and Farniente Plage. The beaches offer plenty of space for sunbathing, swimming in the warm Mediterranean waters, and enjoying a variety of beachside activities. The coastline is long and open, perfect for long walks with views of the vast sea.
From the port (A; GPS: 43.450139, 4.425205), regular boat trips are organized to the mouth of the Rhone river. This excursion is a fantastic way to experience the unique natural wonders of the Camargue from the water. The trip lasts just under two hours and takes you along the tranquil Petit Rhône branch, providing a unique perspective on the delta's ecosystem. Along the way, you can see the region's famous wildlife in their natural habitat, including the iconic white horses and Camargue bulls, as well as an abundance of birdlife like ubiquitous herons, elegant flamingos, and impressive marsh harriers.
The Arena
The amphitheater in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer (B; GPS: 43.449824, 4.426965) is a central part of the town's cultural life and serves as the traditional venue for the region's unique form of bullfighting, known as `La Course Camarguaise`. Unlike Spanish bullfighting, the bulls in this Camargue style of competition are not injured. Instead, the objective is for `raseteurs` (participants) to remove ribbons and rosettes attached to the bull’s horns. This makes for an exciting but harmless sport that is seen as a respectful contest between man and animal.
After the race, the bulls return to their meadows physically intact, making it a form of entertainment that is both thrilling and humane. What's also a nice bonus is that some of these events are free to attend (at least as it was in 2014), providing accessible entertainment for locals and tourists alike. This type of bullfighting is a deeply ingrained cultural tradition and is very common in the Provence and Languedoc areas, reflecting the strong bond between the people and the region's famous bulls.
The Église de Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer
One of the town's most prominent landmarks is the lovely old Spanish-style church, the Église de Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer (C; GPS: 43.451659, 4.427614), which dates back to the 11th century. With its imposing, fortress-like architecture, you might momentarily feel like you've been transported to a village in Mexico or Spain rather than southern France. This fortified church was built to protect the inhabitants from pirate raids, and its thick stone walls and battlements give it a truly unique and powerful appearance.
For a small fee, you can climb to the top of the church's rooftop, which offers very breathtaking views without too much effort, thanks to a manageable ascent of about 50 narrow steps. The panoramic view of the town's white houses, the port, the surrounding Camargue wetlands, and the endless sea is absolutely spectacular. The church's interior is a stark contrast—it's rather dark, with a somber and mysterious atmosphere illuminated by the flickering light of countless candles left by pilgrims, which adds to the spiritual and mystical feel of the place.
Pont de Gau Ornithological Park
The Pont de Gau Ornithological Park is a magnificent natural sanctuary located about 4 km north of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. This sprawling park utilizes nearly 9 hectares of beautifully managed wetlands, which are surrounded by a larger protected nature reserve. Here, visitors have an unparalleled opportunity to observe a truly unique biosphere and its diverse wildlife in their natural habitat.
The park is a birdwatcher's paradise, home to a vast population of various birds, including stunning flocks of pink flamingos, graceful herons, white egrets, majestic swans, and raptors like marsh harriers. Well-maintained walking paths and observation hides allow you to get incredibly close to the wildlife without disturbing them. You can easily spend several hours here, enjoying the tranquility of the marshlands and capturing amazing photographs. For more in-depth information on this incredible natural treasure, we invite you to check out our dedicated article on the Camargue.
Gastronomy in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
As the capital of the Camargue, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer offers a rich culinary scene rooted in the unique produce and traditions of the region. The cuisine here is a delicious blend of land and sea, focusing on local ingredients like bull meat, rice, and fresh seafood.
What to Try?
- Gardianne de Taureau: This is a quintessential Camargue dish, a rich stew made from bull meat, slow-cooked in red wine with olives and local herbs. It’s a hearty and flavorful dish that reflects the region’s cowboy culture.
- Camargue Rice: The Camargue is a major rice-growing area in France. You will find this local rice served as a side dish or used in a variety of recipes, including a local specialty, red rice.
- Seafood: Given its coastal location, fresh seafood is abundant. Look for grilled fish, clams, mussels, or the local fish soup, `soupe de poissons de roche`.
- Salt of Camargue (`Fleur de Sel`): The famous Camargue salt marshes produce this delicate and highly prized salt, a perfect souvenir or seasoning for your dishes.
Where to Eat?
The town center and the area around the port are filled with restaurants and cafes offering a wide range of options, from casual eateries serving fresh seafood to traditional restaurants specializing in local bull dishes. Many places have outdoor terraces where you can enjoy your meal with a view of the harbor or the lively streets.
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