Volterra, Tuscany, Italy
Volterra is an ancient and captivating town in Tuscany, with roots tracing back to the Etruscan civilization. It is strategically positioned about 30 km west of the famous towers of San Gimignano and 60 km north of Massa Marittima. Volterra offers a unique blend of archaeology, history, and stunning architecture, all set within a charming urban fabric. Its amazing structure, with many streets winding up and down its hilltop, perfectly captures the unique, timeless atmosphere of the Tuscan landscape. The town has also gained modern fame as the setting for the vampire clan's lair in "New Moon," the second book of the popular "Twilight" saga by Stephenie Meyer, which has drawn a new wave of visitors.
Parking in Volterra
We have a choice of several, unfortunately usually not very large parking lots. We parked in the "Gioconovo" parking lot (1; GPS: 43.404818, 10.856308), but you can still look for free spaces in the "Macelli" (2; GPS: 43.404381, 10.861361) or "Porta Fiorentina" parking lot (3; GPS: 43.403735, 10.860952). Unfortunately, the large parking lot "Vallebona" is available only to residents, so we do not even give its location. However, there is a fairly spacious parking lot, which will probably have free places. It's the "Docciola" parking lot (4; GPS: 43.403384, 10.863572). All these parking lots are located on the north side of the town.
Due to Volterra’s popularity, especially during peak tourist season, it is wise to arrive early in the day to secure a parking space. The "Docciola" lot, being a bit larger, is a reliable choice. All parking lots provide access to the town's gates, from which you can explore the city on foot, as the historic center is a ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) or Limited Traffic Zone.
Entrance to the old town
We walk the Viale Franco Porretti street towards the beautiful Porta Florentina gate, where we'll enter the old town. On the right we pass the remains of Etruscan and Roman buildings (including the Roman theater) (A; GPS: 43.403703, 10.859868). You can visit this place, but because we have focused on the monuments of the old town, so it was enough for us to see it a distance. We reach the entrance gate (B; GPS: 43.403717, 10.861320) and enter the town historic center. The Porta Florentina was built at the beginning of the 13th century. Above the entrance you can see the Medici coat of arms.
The ruins of the Roman theater are a powerful testament to Volterra's long and layered history. Built in the 1st century BC, it once hosted gladiator fights and theatrical performances, demonstrating the town's importance during the Roman Empire. Seeing the Etruscan foundations beneath the later Roman structures highlights the continuous occupation of this site for millennia. This archaeological park provides a fascinating glimpse into the lives of ancient inhabitants.
Towards the town center
We go straight south the Via Guarnacci street, towards the main square Piazza dei Priori. On the way, we pass interesting buildings, for example the Casa-torre Toscano (C; GPS: 43.402401, 10.861368), which contains the best kept tower in the entire town of Volterra (built in the 13th century). Such towers, as in the case of San Gimingnano, were built primarily for defensive purposes, what can be seen in the narrow windows that were to protect against accidental bullets. The tower is also a scenic viewpoint, so you can climb it and admire the panorama of the town. Via Guarnacci turns slightly right, then changes into Via Giacomo Matteotti and we soon reach the intersection with Via dei Marchesi, which will lead us to the main square of the town.
These tower-houses were symbols of power and wealth for noble families during the medieval period. Each family would build a tower as a fortress and a display of their status, leading to a cityscape of competing vertical structures. Volterra’s towers, though less numerous than in San Gimignano, are equally significant and provide valuable insight into the rivalries and defensive architecture of the time.
Piazza dei Priori
The impressive Piazza dei Priori (D; GPS: 43.402132, 10.859424) is the beating heart of the town, which is really beautiful. You can find here the oldest Tuscan town hall (E; GPS: 43.401806, 10.859455) called Palazzo dei Priori (built in the first half of the 13th century) with a beautifully decorated facade. The town hall has a tower that can be accessed (for a fee). In the square, we also see other historic buildings, such as Palazzo Pretorio (F; GPS: 43.402144, 10.859845) with an interesting stone tower, where, near the roof there is a shelf supporting a statue depicting a pig or a wild boar. For this reason, the tower is called La Torre del Porcellino, which means the Tower of the Piggy.
The Piazza dei Priori has served as the political and social center of Volterra for centuries. Its harmonious architecture and vibrant atmosphere make it a perfect place to relax, people-watch from a cafe, and simply absorb the city's rich history. The impressive Palazzo dei Priori stands as a symbol of Volterra's long tradition of self-governance and civic pride.
Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and the baptistery
The most important church in the town, located next to Piazza dei Priori, is the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta from the 12th century (G; GPS: 43.401778, 10.858834). Nearby was erected a very nice 13th-century baptistery. Earlier there was a church in this place, but it was destroyed by an earthquake. We visited the baptistery because the cathedral was unfortunately undergoing renovation. The baptistery (H; GPS: 43.401618, 10.858268), built on an octagonal plan, looks from the outside like many Tuscan religious buildings: it is built of alternating light and dark stones. Interior is in beige with a centrally located baptismal font.
The striped marble facade of the baptistery is a quintessential feature of Romanesque architecture in Tuscany, seen in major cities like Florence and Pisa. This distinctive design creates a striking visual pattern that highlights the building's geometric form. The baptistery's elegant and simple interior provides a strong contrast to the ornate facades, creating a peaceful and spiritually uplifting space for contemplation.
Towards Porta San Francesco. Return to the center
Then we follow the streets Via Franceschini and Via S. Lino to another gate called Porta San Francesco, passing the San Lino church from the 15th century (I; GPS: 43.403774, 10.856655). After reaching the gate, we walk back the Via S. Lino, but at the intersection we turn left onto Via Ricciarelli and bypassing Piazza dei Priori we go the Via dei Sarti street. On the Via dei Sarti street, there is a magnificent Palazzo Incontri Viti residence (J; GPS: 43.402606, 10.860779) which now houses an art museum. It was the seat of the wealthy merchant Giuseppe Viti, trading in alabaster.
The Palazzo Incontri Viti is a stunning example of a noble residence and a testament to Volterra’s historical importance as a center for alabaster craftsmanship. Alabaster has been quarried and worked in the Volterra region since Etruscan times, and it continues to be a major industry today. The museum within the palace offers a chance to see beautiful examples of carved alabaster and learn about this unique local art form.
Piazza XX Septembre
We cross the already known intersection of Via Guarnacci with Via Giacomo Matteotti and walk the nice Via di Sotto street to Piazza XX Septembre square (K; GPS: 43.401446, 10.862904), where we can find a monument to those killed in the war ("Monumento ai Caduti"), the church of Chiesa di Sant'Agostino from the 13th century, and the interesting Museum of Torture. The square offers a nice views of the town and the surrounding area. Going further east the Via Don Giovanni Minzoni street we will reach the Medici fortress ("Fortezza Medicea") from the 14th and 15th centuries (L; GPS: 43.400161, 10.866128). Unfortunately, it cannot be visited.
The square is a fantastic spot to take a break and enjoy the scenery. The Museum of Torture, while a grim subject, offers a historical perspective on medieval justice and punishment. From the square, the walk to the Medici Fortress is a pleasant one, offering a different view of the town's perimeter. The fortress itself is a powerful reminder of Florence's dominance over Volterra and its strategic importance.
Gastronomy and Shopping
Volterra's unique character extends to its culinary scene, offering a taste of authentic Tuscan cuisine. The town is filled with restaurants, trattorias, and cafes where you can savor local specialties. The cuisine is based on simple, fresh ingredients, including wild boar, truffles, and locally grown vegetables. Be sure to try the local pecorino cheese and a glass of Chianti wine from the surrounding vineyards.
As you explore the winding streets, you'll find numerous shops selling local goods, from delicious food products to handicrafts. Volterra is particularly famous for its artistic alabaster carving, a tradition that dates back to the Etruscans. You can visit artisan workshops to see skilled craftsmen at work and purchase beautiful, translucent alabaster items, from sculptures to lamps. These unique souvenirs are a perfect way to remember your visit to this historic town.
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