Massa Marittima, Tuscany, Italy
Discovering Massa Marittima
Perched majestically on a hill in the heart of Tuscany, Massa Marittima is a stunning medieval town that offers a captivating journey back in time. Located approximately 60 km west of the iconic city of Siena and just 20 km east of the Tyrrhenian Sea, it holds a strategic position that has shaped its rich history. The town is home to several key attractions, including its spectacular triangular main square, Piazza Garibaldi, the magnificent Cathedral of San Cerbone, the Palazzo Comunale, the Palazzo Pretorio, and the imposing Torre del Candeliere. Its origins trace back to the Etruscans, followed by Roman rule, and its prosperity was built on the rich copper and silver mines in the area, leading to its golden age in the 13th and 14th centuries. The town's unique character and well-preserved architecture make it a hidden gem of the Tuscan landscape, offering a less-crowded alternative to more famous cities.
Parking in Massa Marittima
Finding a convenient parking spot in Massa Marittima is essential for a smooth visit to this hilltop town. The town center is a Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL), so parking outside the historic walls is the best option for visitors. The designated parking areas are located just a short walk from the main entrance to the historic district, allowing you to easily transition from your car to the picturesque medieval streets. This system helps preserve the charming, pedestrian-friendly atmosphere of the town while ensuring accessibility for all visitors.
We park the car on the southern side of the town, on a fairly large parking lot located in the square Piazza Dante Alighieri (P, GPS: 43.047452, 10.886151). Parking lot is payable, the ticket must be purchased at the machine (note: you have to enter the plate number of the car). After leaving the parking lot, we follow the path leading upwards and then we reach the wall. We turn left to pass under the road Via Massetana Sud, and in a moment we are at the street Via Norma Parenti (A; GPS: 43.049003, 10.887377). We turn right onto street Via Butigni and walk about 100 meters to get to the main square Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi.
Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi
Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi is the vibrant heart and architectural masterpiece of Massa Marittima. Its unique fan-like or irregular triangular shape is a testament to the town's innovative medieval urban planning, and it is surrounded by some of the most important buildings in the region. The square's gentle slope and stunning façade of the cathedral create a theatrical and welcoming atmosphere, making it a perfect spot to relax at a cafe and admire the stunning surroundings. It truly is one of the most beautiful medieval squares in all of Italy.
The square (B; GPS: 43.050062, 10.888067) has an interesting shape of an irregular star or triangle, at the sides of which were erected most important buildings, namely the Palazzo Communale from the turn of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, the Palazzo Pretorio, which houses an archaeological museum with Etruscan artifacts, as well as the impressive cathedral of St. Cerbonus (Cattedrale di San Cerbone) from the thirteenth century with a beautiful belfry and a magnificent façade. It is really worth entering the cathedral and visiting its interior.
Torre del Candeliere
The journey from the main square to the upper part of the town leads you to the impressive Senese Fortress, a powerful symbol of Siena's influence over Massa Marittima in the 14th century. The fortress served as a military base, housing a contingent of soldiers who controlled the town and its valuable mining resources. Its elevated position offers a strategic advantage and provides spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and the rooftops of the medieval town below. The fortress's robust architecture and defensive walls are a testament to the turbulent history of the region.
After visiting Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi we walk the street Via Moncini, which at some point turns into a staircase. We reach the Senese fortress (Fortezza Senese) from the 14th century, which housed a military contingent providing control over the town. An interesting element of the fortress is the tower Torre del Candeliere (C; GPS: 43.051351, 10.890448), which you can visit, as well as a nice bridge in the shape of an arch.
We are in square Piazza Giacomo Matteotti (D; GPS: 43.051566, 10.890581) and then follow the street Via San Francesco towards the church Chiesa di San Francesco passing through the gate Porta San Francesco.
Church of St. Francis of Assisi. Return to the historical center
This part of the walk offers a beautiful and complete loop, guiding you through the town's upper section and back to the main square. Along the way, you'll pass through several historic gates and archways, which once served as vital entry points to the walled city and its distinct districts. These gates not only provide a sense of the town's historical layers but also offer picturesque photo opportunities. The journey back is a delightful descent, allowing you to appreciate the intricate layout of the streets and the unique architecture from a different perspective.
The tradition says that Saint Francis stayed in Massa Marittima and supported a local group of monks. According to the preserved documentation, the first mentions of the Franciscans come from the mid-13th century, when the construction of the monastery began. From the building of original church (E; GPS: 43.053064, 10.890084) only a small portion of the nave and the apse have been preserved.
We continue our walk along street Via San Francesco, which changes to Via Bernardino degli Albizzeschi. We pass through another gate - Porta San Rocco (F; GPS: 43.052630, 10.889111) and we reach the square Piazza Cavour. We continue the walk along Via della Libertà and finally we are again in the square Piazza Garibaldi. Then we return to the parking lot and drive to another pretty town located nearby: Suvereto.
Gastronomy in Massa Marittima
The cuisine of Massa Marittima is a testament to its location in the Maremma region of Tuscany, offering a hearty and authentic culinary experience. The local dishes are rooted in the area's strong agricultural and hunting traditions, focusing on robust flavors and high-quality local ingredients. This is a region where you can truly taste the terroir, from the wild game of the forests to the olive oil produced on the surrounding hillsides. The food is paired with excellent local wines, creating a complete sensory journey.
What to Try?
- Cinghiale (Wild Boar): This is the king of Maremma cuisine. You can find it in rich stews (cinghiale in umido), as a pasta sauce (pappardelle al cinghiale), or roasted.
- Local Olive Oil: The hills around Massa Marittima are covered in olive groves. Be sure to sample the local extra virgin olive oil, which is a staple of every meal.
- Tortelli Maremmani: A delicious regional pasta, these large, square ravioli are typically filled with ricotta and spinach and served with a simple butter and sage sauce or a wild boar ragù.
- Mushrooms and Truffles: The local forests provide an abundance of porcini mushrooms and truffles, which are used to elevate many dishes.
- Local Wines: The region is famous for its DOC wines. Be sure to try the local reds like Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese, or the well-known Morellino di Scansano from the nearby area.
Where to Eat?
Massa Marittima has a wonderful selection of trattorias and restaurants, many of which are located around Piazza Garibaldi and in the narrow streets of the old town. These places often serve traditional Tuscan and Maremma cuisine with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients. Look for restaurants that advertise "cucina tipica" or "cucina maremmana" for an authentic experience. The town also has charming cafes where you can enjoy a coffee or a glass of wine while admiring the medieval architecture.
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