Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy
Positano is a truly unique and breathtakingly beautiful town located on the stunning Amalfi Coast in Italy, with easy access to popular destinations like Sorrento, Naples, and the enchanting island of Capri. Thanks to its remarkable cliffside location and wonderful Mediterranean climate, it attracts visitors from all corners of the globe. The local weather is a major draw, with mild, warm winters and long, sun-drenched summers where the intense heat is often pleasantly tempered by a refreshing sea breeze.
Widely celebrated as one of the most picturesque towns on the entire Amalfi Coast, Positano’s iconic beauty is instantly recognizable. Its beautiful, pastel-colored buildings cascade down the steep mountainside towards the sparkling sea in a stunning vertical landscape. If you have ever seen a postcard or an image of the Amalfi Coast on the internet, it is almost certainly a photograph of this mesmerizing village, which has become a symbol of Mediterranean coastal charm and romance.
Parking in Positano
Finding parking in Positano can be a challenge, as the village is built on a steep slope with limited space for vehicles. During the peak tourist season, parking lots are almost always full, and prices are notoriously high (for instance, around 8€ per hour in 2022). A unique issue to be aware of is that some tourists have reported minor scratches on their cars upon return. This happens because cars are packed tightly like sardines, and you typically hand your keys over to the staff who move cars around to allow others to leave. If a car is blocked by several rows, the staff may move it, sometimes leading to accidental scuffs. We advise always having cash on hand, as the card payment machines in the parking lots can be unreliable.
If you choose to take the chance and arrive by car, there are a few options to consider. You could try to park in the Di Gennaro parking lot (1; GPS: 40.6302356, 14.4856252), which has a pretty good location on a street that goes straight to the sea. A little further there is the Mandara parking lot (2; GPS: 40.6310850, 14.4843841). The third parking lot is Carpineto (3; GPS: 40.6285189, 14.4806113), which is a bit more distant, located on the western outskirts of the town (the walk to the center takes about 30 minutes).
However, the method we highly recommend is simply to get to Positano by ferry. This option not only saves you the stress of finding parking but also provides the absolute best panorama of the town as you approach from the sea. Ferries are a convenient and scenic mode of transport, with routes available from nearby Capri, Naples, Salerno, and Sorrento. Another excellent alternative is to take a local bus, for example from Sorrento, which offers a more budget-friendly way to get around the coast while still enjoying the stunning views.
Sightseeing in Positano
If you arrive in Positano by ferry, a major advantage is that you are immediately in the center of the town, right by the main beach. If you chose to park, it will take some time to walk down to the seafront, and you will face the challenging task of walking back uphill. As the village is built on a steep mountain slope, be prepared to walk in a more "vertical" than "horizontal" fashion. We have already dealt with something like this in the Provencal village of Simiane-la-Rotonde. If someone has significant problems with their legs, we advise against extensive walking around Positano, especially as it is often crowded. In this case, you can just relax on the beach and enjoy the sun.
As you navigate the charming, cascading streets, you will discover a multitude of lovely little boutiques and art galleries. Positano is particularly famous for its beautiful, handcrafted ceramics and linens, often adorned with colorful lemon and olive motifs. These products are made by local artisans, ensuring their authenticity and quality, though the prices can be a little higher to reflect this craftsmanship. The village also has plenty of restaurants and cafes tucked away in scenic spots, where you can take a break and enjoy some fresh seafood with a view.
Positano has one main beach, Positano Spiaggia (A; GPS: 40.6276050, 14.4882301), which is a lively and bustling hub of activity. It is not sandy, but rather covered in small, dark pebbles that are comfortable to walk on barefoot. A second, slightly smaller beach, Fornillo Spiaggia (B; GPS: 40.6263742, 14.4818874), is located at the western end of the town and can be reached by a picturesque coastal walk. This beach also features pebbles rather than sand, offering a more peaceful atmosphere for relaxation.
Il Sentiero Degli Dei - the Path of the Gods
For those who prefer a more active vacation than simply relaxing on the beach, the legendary Path of the Gods (`Il Sentiero degli Dei`) offers an unforgettable challenge. This incredible hiking trail, approximately 6 km long, stretches from Bomerano to Nocelle. It is widely regarded as the most beautiful and picturesque trail on the entire Amalfi Coast, offering stunning panoramic views that live up to its divine name. However, be prepared, especially on a hot day, as it is a demanding hike that requires good physical condition. The path is rocky, narrow, and at times runs along the edge of steep cliffs, so it is not recommended for anyone with a fear of heights. This is a true mountain trail, similar to what you might find in the Alps, requiring sturdy footwear and careful steps. You must bring plenty of drinking water with you, as there are no refreshment points along the way.
We have seen many people on the trail who were not prepared for its difficulty, including those with young children and dogs. It is crucial to be realistic about your physical fitness; this is not a casual stroll like a walk down the Promenade des Anglais in Nice. To begin your journey, the best way to get to the starting point is to take a bus to Bomerano. The trail officially begins at Piazza Paolo Capasso square (C; GPS: 40.6301595, 14.5401177) and requires about three hours to complete in one direction. Along the way, the path offers breathtaking views of the coastline, though it involves numerous ascents and descents. There are actually a lot of stairs, apparently over 1500. A particularly interesting fork in the trail offers a choice to descend towards Positano or continue towards Praiano (D; GPS: 40.6207205, 14.5280038). The path ends in the charming village of Nocelle at the Church of Chiesa di Santa Croce (E; GPS: 40.6284963, 14.5031103).
Gastronomy in Positano
The cuisine of Positano is a delicious reflection of its coastal location and the fertile hills above, heavily influenced by fresh seafood and the famous local lemons. Dining here is a key part of the experience, offering flavors that are vibrant and truly Mediterranean.
What to Try?
- `Scialatielli ai Frutti di Mare`: This is a must-try local pasta dish. The homemade, thick-cut pasta is served with an abundance of fresh seafood from the bay, such as clams, mussels, and shrimp, in a light, flavorful sauce.
- Lemon-Infused Dishes: Positano and the Amalfi Coast are famous for their giant, fragrant lemons. You will find them used in everything from pasta sauces to fish dishes and desserts. Try the simple yet exquisite lemon pasta.
- `Delizia al Limone`: A delightful sponge cake shaped like a dome, soaked in a Limoncello syrup and filled with a creamy lemon custard. It is a heavenly, refreshing dessert.
- Limoncello: The iconic lemon liqueur is produced throughout the region. It is the perfect digestive after a meal, often served chilled.
Where to Eat?
- `Trattorias` with a View: Many restaurants are built into the cliffside, offering stunning terraces with panoramic views of the sea and the town. These are perfect for a romantic dinner.
- Beachside Restaurants: For a more casual experience, you can find `lidos` and restaurants right on the main beach that serve fresh seafood and simple, delicious dishes.
- Hidden Cafes: Explore the narrow staircases and winding paths to discover charming, small cafes and bars tucked away in quieter spots.
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