Lucca, Tuscany, Italy
Discovering Lucca: The Walled City
Lucca is an absolute treasure among the cities of Tuscany, Italy, offering a unique charm and historical depth. Conveniently located just 20 km north of Pisa and 75 km west of Florence, it is easily accessible and a perfect day-trip destination. While often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors, we believe Lucca is a hidden gem that deserves its own spotlight. Its remarkably well-preserved old town, enclosed by magnificent Renaissance walls, is a labyrinth of fascinating palaces, picturesque squares, and ancient monuments, offering a much richer urban experience than just a single landmark like the Leaning Tower in Pisa. If you find yourself in Pisa, a visit to Lucca is an absolute must—you will not be disappointed!
Lucca’s most distinguishing feature is its incredible ring of walls, which are not just for show but are fully accessible and perfect for walking or cycling. These walls, which were never breached in battle, have preserved the historic city center, creating a tranquil and car-free environment that feels like a step back in time. The city's atmosphere is calm and elegant, contrasting with the bustling crowds of other Tuscan destinations. Exploring Lucca offers a more intimate and authentic Italian experience, where you can simply wander the streets, discover hidden courtyards, and enjoy the relaxed pace of life.
Parking in Lucca
Parking outside the historic walls is the most practical and recommended way to visit Lucca, ensuring a hassle-free start to your tour of the city. The city has several large, well-organized parking lots conveniently located near the city gates, allowing easy access on foot. This system helps preserve the pedestrian-friendly nature of the old town, keeping it free of traffic and noise. The short walk from the parking lot to the city gate is a pleasant journey in itself, offering your first glimpse of the impressive fortifications that define Lucca.
We leave the car in the large parking lot "Park Carducci Lucca" located near the entrance to the old town (1; GPS: 43.838819, 10.497375). You have to walk about 650 m to the gate of Porta San Pietro (A; GPS: 43.838860, 10.502988) that is the entrance point to the old town. You can also try to park just at this gate, but please take into account that this parking lot is quite small.
Cattedrale di San Martino
The Cattedrale di San Martino is not just Lucca's main religious building but also a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, renowned for its highly decorative facade and intricate stonework. Its construction, spanning centuries, reflects the evolving artistic styles of the time, making it a living history book. The cathedral's unique asymmetrical portico and sculptures tell stories from the Bible and local legends, inviting visitors to study its details for hours. It stands as a testament to Lucca's wealth and artistic prowess during the medieval period.
After passing through the Porta San Pietro we head to Piazza San Martino square (B; GPS: 43.8408261, 10.5050458), to the famous cathedral dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours (Cattedrale di San Martino) built between 11th and 14th century. Both its exterior and interior, rich in works of art, look extremely interesting. Take some time to walk peacefully and without hurry among the naves of the church.
Piazza Napoleone
Piazza Napoleone stands as a grand and imposing square, a lasting legacy of Lucca's complex political history during the Napoleonic era. Originally a green space, it was transformed into a monumental square under the rule of Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, Napoleon's sister, who intended it to be a symbol of imperial power. Its architectural layout and the surrounding stately buildings, including the Palazzo Ducale, create a sense of grandeur that is unique in Lucca's medieval landscape. The square is a popular gathering place for locals and tourists, especially during events and concerts.
Then we go the Via Duomo street towards Piazza Napoleone square (C; GPS: 43.8411861, 10.5024281) founded in the beginning of the 19th century. A monument to Napoleon was planned to be erected in the center of the square, but after 1815 the political situation in Europe changed, and therefore in 1843 a monument to Maria Luisa (who reigned in this city from 1815 to 1824) from the Spanish Bourbon family was erected there. There is also located the Palazzo Ducale, also called "Palazzo Pubblico" (D; GPS: 43.8414608, 10.5016825). It is currently the seat of the prefecture and authority of the province of Lucca. In the upper right corner of the square (E; GPS: 43.8417083, 10.5031953) you can find the monument "Ai Caduti per la Patria" ("for those killed for their homeland"). It looks like a pyramid built of boulders, on the top of which there is a statue with a laurel wreath.
Piazza San Michele
Piazza San Michele al Foro is a bustling and lively square that has served as Lucca's ancient Roman forum and civic heart for centuries. Dominated by the majestic Church of San Michele in Foro, the square is a hub of activity and a perfect place to people-watch. Its central location and vibrant atmosphere make it a natural gathering point for both locals and tourists. The square is a beautiful example of how Roman heritage has been seamlessly integrated into the medieval and Renaissance city, providing a timeless backdrop for modern life.
After visiting Napoleon Square, we head towards the next nearby square, namely Piazza San Michele. On this vast square there is a beautiful church of St. Archangel Michael (San Michele in Foro) from the 11th century (F; GPS: 43.8431631, 10.5027178). On the south side of the square you can find the Palazzo Pretorio building, with a monument to Matteo Civitali, a sculptor from Lucca and an architect with technical skills (G; GPS: 43.8426003, 10.5023611). Opposite the church of San Michele in Foro, there is the entrance to Via di Poggio street, that leads to the nearby small square Piazza Cittadella (H; GPS: 43.8430219, 10.5013097). In one of surrounding buildings the famous composer Giacomo Puccini was born.
Giacomo Puccini from Lucca
Giacomo Puccini is one of Lucca's most celebrated sons, and his legacy is deeply woven into the fabric of the city. He is regarded as one of the greatest composers of Italian opera, with his works, such as "La bohème," "Tosca," and "Madama Butterfly," still performed worldwide. The city honors his memory with a dedicated museum and a strong musical tradition, including opera concerts in his honor. Exploring his birthplace provides a personal insight into the life of the man whose music continues to captivate audiences around the globe.
Giacomo Puccini was born in Lucca on December 22, 1858. He is one of the greatest composers who ever lived. There is a museum dedicated to him (I; GPS: 43.8433256, 10.5015375) at Piazza Citadella, in the house where he was born. You can find a monument dedicated to him on the square itself.
Via Fillungo
Via Fillungo is the vibrant heart of Lucca's commercial district, a bustling and elegant street that perfectly blends historical charm with modern commerce. As the main artery of the old town, it connects some of the city's most important squares, inviting visitors to stroll and soak in the lively atmosphere. The street is a beautiful fusion of medieval architecture and contemporary life, with a constant flow of people drawn to its diverse offerings. Its status as a pedestrian-only thoroughfare makes it a pleasant and safe place for a leisurely walk or a shopping spree.
We enter the most famous shopping street of the old town of Lucca - Via Fullungo (J; GPS: 43.8434919, 10.5040939). You just have to walk this street. It connects the very center with interesting Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. The street has a lot of cafes and restaurants, as well as boutiques and shops of well-known global companies. There are always a lot of people walking on this street. If you want to make there a shopping, remember that as usual in southern countries, all shops are closed around 13-15 hours.
Piazza dell'Anfiteatro
This truly unique square is a magnificent testament to Lucca's Roman origins, standing on the site of a 1st-century Roman amphitheater. The oval shape of the ancient arena has been perfectly preserved by the buildings that were constructed on top of its foundations over the centuries, creating a stunning and enclosed space. The square's history is literally built into its architecture, with its concentric rings of houses following the original Roman footprint. Today, it serves as a bustling hub of restaurants and cafes, where visitors can dine within the very walls of history.
Like virtually every old town in Italy, also Lucca has traces of the Romans' presence. One of them is Piazza dell'Anfiteatro square (K; GPS: 43.8452950, 10.5061592). It used to be a Roman amphitheater in the past (the date of its creation is set to 1st-2nd century BC). Currently, the arena is an ellipse-shaped square, and the auditorium has been transformed into a series of buildings closely surrounding this square. You can enter the square only through specific gates. Once inside, you'll see a really interesting place!
Torre Guinigi
The Torre Guinigi is Lucca’s most iconic and whimsical landmark, instantly recognizable by the unique oak trees growing at its summit. This medieval tower, built by the wealthy Guinigi family, was a symbol of their power and prestige. Climbing the 232 steps to the top is a rewarding experience, as the magnificent panorama of the city and its surrounding countryside unfolds before you. The presence of the trees on the roof adds a magical and surreal touch to the already stunning view, making it a truly unforgettable sight and photo opportunity.
We head from Piazza dell'Anfiteatro towards the unique 45-meter Torre Guinigi tower from the 14th century (L; GPS: 43.8437628, 10.5070067). You can climb up this tower (the admission ticket: 4€) and then from above admire the magnificent panorama of Lucca. Be careful while going up the stairs (232 stairs) - the stairs are quite steep. An interesting fact is that on the top of the tower grow quite large oaks.
Chiesa di Santa Maria Forisportam
As you begin your journey back, the Chiesa di Santa Maria Forisportam presents another striking example of Lucca’s rich religious and architectural heritage. The church’s beautiful white marble facade is a hallmark of the Romanesque style, standing out against the backdrop of the city. Its name, which means "outside the walls," tells a fascinating story of the city's expansion over time, as this area was once a rural land outside the original fortifications. The square in front of it is a peaceful spot, perfect for a moment of quiet reflection before you leave the old town.
We slowly return to the parking lot heading the south. We pass by the Piazza Santa Maria Foris Portam square, next to the church of Chiesa di Santa Maria Forisportam from the 12th century, also known as Santa Maria Bianca because of the interesting facade of white marble (M; GPS: 43.8421339, 10.5081492). The name "Fortis Portam" means "outside the walls" because once this part of the town was outside the city walls. On the square you can find the so-called "truncated column" - this is a Roman granite column which in the Middle Ages was a destination for riders participating in races.
Gastronomy in Lucca
The culinary scene in Lucca is a delightful journey into the heart of Tuscan cuisine, with a focus on fresh, simple, and high-quality ingredients. The city's restaurants and trattorias serve up local specialties that reflect the region's agricultural abundance. Lucca is particularly known for its exceptional olive oil, which is considered one of the best in Italy, and it forms the basis of many of the local dishes. The pedestrian-friendly streets of the old town are lined with inviting eateries, from casual cafes to elegant dining rooms, where you can savor the authentic flavors of the region.
What to Try?
- Tortelli Lucchese: A signature dish of Lucca, these are large, handmade pasta parcels filled with a savory meat ragù and served with a rich sauce.
- Farinata: A thin, savory pancake made from chickpea flour, baked in a wood-fired oven and often served as a street food or appetizer.
- Local Olive Oil: Be sure to sample and purchase some of the local extra virgin olive oil, which has a distinct, peppery flavor.
- Buccellato: A sweet, ring-shaped bread with raisins and anise seeds, a traditional sweet treat from Lucca that is perfect for breakfast or a snack.
Where to Eat?
You'll find an excellent concentration of restaurants along Via Fillungo and in the squares, especially Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. The latter offers a unique dining experience within the ancient amphitheater walls. For a more authentic experience, venture into the smaller side streets to find a family-run trattoria. Many of the local restaurants proudly feature "cucina Lucchese" on their menus, highlighting the town's unique culinary identity. Finish your meal with a scoop of local artisanal gelato from one of the many gelaterias scattered throughout the old town.
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