Vaison-la-Romaine, Provence, France
Vaison-la-Romaine is a fascinating and unique town located approximately 30 km north-east of the famous city of Orange, gracefully straddling the river Ouveze. What makes this destination so special is its dramatic division into two distinct parts. The first is a magnificent medieval old town, the Haute Ville, from the twelfth century, perched majestically on a steep hill, offering a glimpse into a fortified past. The second part lies below the hill, a vibrant "new town" that is home to a wealth of incredibly well-preserved monuments from the Roman period, which are a major draw for history enthusiasts and will be explored in detail in the next part of our guide.
Parking in Vaison-la-Romaine
There is a fairly large parking lot (1; GPS: 44.238393, 5.075982) conveniently located next to the town, on the river Ouveze. However, if possible, you should arrive earlier, since the number of tourists can be quite high in the season. There is also a second large parking lot near the Roman ruins, where you can park your car if you want to explore them (2; GPS: 44.242845, 5.072071).
During the famous Tuesday market, both parking lots fill up very quickly. Planning your arrival for early morning is essential if you want to secure a convenient spot. Parking lot 1 is perfect for visiting the medieval upper town and the Roman bridge, while parking lot 2 is ideal for starting your tour from the Roman archaeological sites, allowing for seamless exploration of both sides of the town.
The Roman bridge
The first thing that is most noticeable after arriving, is the beautiful Roman bridge (A; GPS: 44.238934, 5.074648) over the river Ouveze connecting two parts of the town. It was built by the Romans in the first century AD and has a length of approx. 18 m. It is still used - if you come to the town from the Orange direction, you will need to use it to get to the other side of the river, where the parking lot is located.
Remarkably, the bridge has withstood several major floods of the Ouveze river over the centuries, proving its exceptional durability. It stands as a powerful symbol of Vaison-la-Romaine's enduring history, linking the ancient past with modern life. Walking across its stone surface, you can't help but feel a profound connection to the countless generations who have used this same crossing for nearly two millennia.
The old town
First, we visit the old medieval town on a hill. We pass shaded squares wandering along the narrow, cobbled streets. There are beautiful fountains in the squares, and the buildings have interesting facades from the 16th-17th century. At the top of the hill there are the ruins of the feudal castle (B; GPS: 44.237238, 5.073002) built by the Count of Toulouse in the twelfth century, as well as the cathedral of Sainte-Marie-de-l'Assomption of the fifteenth century. There is an excellent vantage point (C; GPS: 44.238455, 5.074793) near the cathedral for great views of the surrounding area and the Mont Ventoux.
Wandering through the medieval streets of the Haute Ville is like stepping back in time. The alleys are protected by the shade of stone buildings, providing a cool and atmospheric environment. The castle, though in ruins, still commands a powerful presence, offering insight into the town's defensive history. The cathedral, with its blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles, is an architectural gem, and the viewpoint near it provides one of the best photo opportunities in the entire region, with a breathtaking panorama of vineyards and olive groves stretching to the horizon.
The new town
The new town has a lot of restaurants and cafes - many of them you can find in the plaza de Montfort (D; GPS: 44.240841, 5.075415). We happened to hit on a Provencal market, so the traffic was quite heavy, and the sellers spread their stalls and offered a variety of goods for sale on almost every street. People walked by, watched, but relatively few decided to buy the goods. This market was, however, a good opportunity for restaurants owners :)
The Provencal market in Vaison-la-Romaine, which takes place every Tuesday, is one of the largest and most famous in the region. It is a sensory delight, with colorful stalls selling local produce, cheeses, honey, olives, and a vast array of goods. The lively atmosphere, filled with the scents of fresh herbs and lavender, makes it a quintessential Provençal experience. It's a wonderful opportunity to experience local culture and find unique souvenirs or fresh ingredients for a picnic.
The Roman ruins
The town has a lot of interesting remnants of the Romans. We presented them in the next episode.
These extensive ruins are not just a few scattered stones but a vast archaeological park that includes two major residential quarters—La Villasse and Puymin. Here, you can walk through the remains of a Roman villa, a theater, public baths, and a shopping street, offering a vivid glimpse into daily life in Roman Gaul. The site is a testament to the town's prosperity during the Roman Empire and is a must-see for anyone interested in archaeology and ancient history.
Gastronomy in Vaison-la-Romaine
The culinary scene in Vaison-la-Romaine is a delightful reflection of its Provençal location, characterized by fresh, simple ingredients and rich, aromatic flavors. The abundance of local produce from the surrounding countryside, including olives, grapes, truffles, and herbs, is at the heart of the town’s cuisine. Dining here is a key part of the experience, with a variety of restaurants and cafes to choose from.
During your visit, be sure to indulge in local specialties such as tapenade (olive paste), ratatouille, and dishes featuring the region’s famous goat cheese. The area is also known for its excellent wines, falling under the Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Ventoux appellations, making a wine-tasting a perfect activity to pair with your meal. The Tuesday market is an ideal place to sample local delicacies and buy picnic supplies, from fresh bread to artisanal cheese and charcuterie.
Whether you choose a cozy restaurant in the medieval upper town or a bustling cafe in the new town's plaza, you'll find a welcoming atmosphere and delicious food that captures the essence of Provence. Enjoying a meal on an outdoor terrace, soaking in the sun and the lively atmosphere, is a memory you won't soon forget.
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