Forcalquier, Provence, France
The enchanting town of Forcalquier is ideally situated in the heart of what is known as High Provence (Haute Provence), approximately 40 kilometers west of Apt and 35 kilometers north of Gréoux-les-Bains. Nestled between the majestic Luberon and Lure massifs, Forcalquier captivates visitors with its labyrinthine narrow streets, charming squares adorned with graceful fountains, and a rich tapestry of historic buildings that whisper tales of bygone eras. What makes Forcalquier particularly interesting is its historical significance, as it lies directly on the ancient Via Domitia. This was the very first Roman road, essentially a superhighway of its time, constructed in Gaul to connect Italy and Spain, traversing the picturesque landscapes of southern France. This ancient path underscores Forcalquier's long-standing importance as a crossroads of culture and commerce, adding another fascinating layer to its allure as a destination.
Parking in Forcalquier
When visiting Forcalquier, you'll find convenient parking options to begin your exploration of this charming town. A sizable parking lot, known as "Parking des Cordeliers" (1; GPS: 43.9594020, 5.7848581), is ideally located near the town center. We recommend starting here, as it's generally large enough to accommodate many vehicles. From this parking area, a pleasant 5-minute walk along Trav. des Prés and Rue des Giloux will lead you directly into the vibrant heart of the town. Alternatively, another parking lot is situated to the north of the old town (2; GPS: 43.9606597, 5.7802418). Its main advantage is its slightly closer proximity to the center compared to Parking des Cordeliers, however, it's worth noting that this lot can sometimes fill up quickly, making early arrival advisable during peak times. Both options provide a good starting point for your leisurely stroll through Forcalquier's historic streets.
Forcalquier tour
After securely parking your car, your tour of Forcalquier naturally begins by heading towards the captivating buildings of the old town. Along your way, a must-visit is the serene Couvent des Cordeliers (A; GPS: 43.9591796, 5.7827708). This magnificent 13th-century monastery, beautifully preserved, is enveloped by a tranquil small park, creating a true oasis of calm amidst the town's historical tapestry. It's a place deeply steeped in history, offering a peaceful retreat and a profound sense of the past. From there, you'll delve into the delightful thicket of winding streets, typical of Provençal villages, as you make your way towards the former cathedral, now known as the Church of Notre-Dame-du-Bourguet de Forcalquier (B; GPS: 43.9593714, 5.7811586). Dating back to the 12th century, this impressive edifice showcases remarkable architectural evolution; its choir, nave, and cloisters from the early 13th century are celebrated as some of the earliest and most significant examples of the Gothic style to be found in Provence, making it a compelling highlight for history and architecture enthusiasts alike.
Our journey then leads us to the charming Place Saint-Michel (C; GPS: 43.9586528, 5.7809969), a delightful square that serves as a central hub for local life. At its heart stands the exquisite Renaissance Saint-Michel fountain, a beautifully crafted piece from the early 16th century, whose intricate details and flowing water provide a serene focal point and a popular meeting spot. After a leisurely stroll through the captivating streets of the old town, our path takes us towards the prominent Forcalquier citadel (D; GPS: 43.9571322, 5.7820111). While sadly nothing remains of the original medieval citadel, which was tragically destroyed in the early 17th century, its legacy lives on. In its place, the elegant octagonal Chapel Notre Dame de Provence was constructed in the second half of the 19th century. Importantly, from this elevated vantage point atop the former citadel, visitors are rewarded with truly breathtaking and expansive views of the entire Provence area surrounding Forcalquier, offering a panoramic spectacle of rolling hills, charming villages, and verdant landscapes that stretch as far as the eye can see, making the ascent well worth the effort. For those interested in local products and vibrant atmosphere, it's essential to remember that market day in Forcalquier is always on Monday. On this day, the area of the Place du Bourguet square and its adjacent streets come alive, bustling with an array of stalls overflowing with fresh produce, regional delicacies, artisanal crafts, and more, providing a wonderful opportunity to immerse yourself in the local culture and flavors.
Montagne de Lure
Just a short distance from Forcalquier lies the Montagne de Lure, a vast and captivating mountainous region that forms an integral part of Provence's stunning natural landscape. This expansive area begins in the Durance valley and stretches majestically towards the iconic Mont Ventoux massif, offering a diverse array of terrain and breathtaking scenery. The Montagne de Lure is a true paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, providing a wealth of activities for avid hiking enthusiasts and cyclists who can explore its numerous trails and scenic routes. In the colder months, it transforms into a charming destination for winter sports, boasting several smaller ski resorts. One of the most notable viewpoints within this region is Cairn 2000 (E, GPS: 44.11094, 5.85609), which is distinctively marked by a striking 3-meter pyramid constructed entirely from stones, offering a unique landmark and an excellent vantage point. Nearby, visitors can also delve into history and spirituality by visiting the fascinating Notre-Dame de Lure Abbey (F, GPS: 44.09686, 5.79299). This beautiful 12th-century abbey, nestled at an altitude of approximately 1200 meters above sea level, provides a serene and historically rich retreat amidst the stunning natural beauty of the Montagne de Lure, making it a truly rewarding side trip from Forcalquier.
Gastronomy in Forcalquier
The gastronomy of Forcalquier, deeply rooted in High Provence, offers a rich and authentic culinary experience, heavily influenced by its mountainous yet Mediterranean surroundings. The cuisine here is characterized by robust flavors, aromatic herbs, exceptional local produce, and traditional preparation methods that have been passed down through generations. Expect dishes that reflect the seasonal bounty of the region, from lamb raised in the Lure massif to an abundance of olives, almonds, and lavender.
What to Try?
- Agneau de Sisteron: While Sisteron is a bit further north, the lamb from this region (including the Lure massif) is highly prized for its quality. Look for dishes featuring tender, flavorful lamb, often roasted with Herbs de Provence.
- L'Huile d'Olive (Olive Oil): Forcalquier is surrounded by olive groves, producing excellent olive oil. It's a cornerstone of the local diet, used in almost every dish and perfect for dipping fresh bread.
- Miel (Honey): The diverse flora, especially lavender fields, contributes to a rich variety of local honeys. Look for lavender honey, often deep golden and intensely floral.
- Almonds: The region is known for its almonds, used in confectionery, nougat, and various desserts.
- Banons: A small, distinctive goat cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves and often macerated in eau-de-vie. It has a unique, strong flavor and creamy texture.
- Herbs de Provence: The wild herbs growing in the hills (thyme, rosemary, savory, oregano, marjoram) are integral to the local cooking, infusing dishes with characteristic Provençal aromas.
- Pastis: While not food, this anise-flavored aperitif is a quintessential Provençal drink, enjoyed diluted with water, especially on warm days.
- Wines from Pierrevert AOC: Just south of Forcalquier lies the Pierrevert wine appellation, producing pleasant rosé, red, and white wines that pair well with local cuisine.
- Pain de Forcalquier: Look for artisanal breads from local bakeries, often made with traditional methods.
Where to Eat?
Forcalquier offers a charming selection of restaurants, bistros, and cafes, many of which pride themselves on using local, seasonal ingredients. The town's squares and narrow streets provide delightful settings for a meal.
- Restaurants in the Old Town: The labyrinthine streets around Place du Bourguet and Place Saint-Michel are home to numerous traditional Provençal restaurants (often called "auberges" or "restaurants traditionnels") offering authentic local cuisine.
- Le Bistrot de la Place: (Place du Bourguet) Often recommended for its lively atmosphere and classic Provençal dishes. It's a great spot to soak in the market day buzz.
- L'Auberge de la Fontaine: Known for its refined regional cuisine, often utilizing seasonal products from local producers.
- Le Jamais 203: A popular choice for a more modern take on Provençal and French cuisine, often praised for its creative dishes and pleasant setting.
- Local Markets (especially Monday): The Monday market is a fantastic opportunity to sample local street food, cheeses, olives, and charcuterie directly from producers, perfect for an impromptu picnic.
- Cafes and Bakeries: For a lighter meal, coffee, or a sweet treat, explore the town's cafes and bakeries for fresh pastries, sandwiches, and local specialties.
Dining in Forcalquier is an experience that immerses you in the authentic flavors and warm hospitality of High Provence, making every meal a memorable part of your visit.
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