Pertuis, Provence, France
We had the pleasure of visiting Pertuis, a vibrant town located in the heart of Provence, positioned at the southern gateway to the stunning Luberon massif. It serves as an excellent base for exploring nearby gems like Lourmarin, Cadenet, and the bustling city of Aix-en-Provence. Like so many Provençal towns, Pertuis invites visitors to lose themselves in its labyrinth of winding, narrow streets, where you can admire beautiful fountains, discover fragments of ancient walls, and feel the pulse of local social life. This strategic location makes Pertuis an ideal starting point for day trips into the picturesque Luberon Regional Natural Park, offering breathtaking landscapes, charming hilltop villages, and endless opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and exploring the rich biodiversity of the region.
Pertuis offers a more authentic, lived-in atmosphere compared to some of the more polished tourist hubs. Its historical core is a treasure trove of architectural details, from charming stone buildings to historic towers that speak of a rich and often turbulent past. As you wander, you’ll discover the town’s character, which is a perfect blend of medieval heritage and modern-day Provençal life, all set against the beautiful backdrop of the Luberon hills. The well-preserved architecture, including remnants of its medieval ramparts and ancient gates, provides a fascinating glimpse into the town's defensive history and its evolution over centuries, making it a compelling destination for history enthusiasts and cultural explorers.
We found an ideal parking solution in Pertuis at the "Parking Dévalade" (P: GPS: 43.695464, 5.500141), a huge and, most importantly, free parking lot conveniently located on the west side of the old town. This spacious lot provides ample room for visitors, making it a stress-free start to your exploration of the historic center. Its prime location just outside the medieval walls means you can effortlessly avoid navigating the narrow, winding streets of the old town by car, ensuring a smooth and easy arrival for all travelers.
The proximity of the Parking Dévalade to the historic core makes it incredibly convenient, allowing you to seamlessly begin your walk directly into the heart of Pertuis without any hassle. We highly recommend this spot for its exceptional ease of access and generous capacity, providing a perfect and welcoming gateway to the town's charming streets, historical monuments, and vibrant local life. From here, you can simply stroll into the old town and commence your journey of discovery, immersing yourself in the authentic Provençal atmosphere.
Strolling the Town
Our first stop in Pertuis was the tourist office, which is uniquely housed in a fascinating building with a clock tower (A; GPS: 43.694428, 5.501790). This impressive structure is actually a 12th-century donjon, a standalone defensive-residential tower that stands as the last remaining part of a grand castle built by Guillaume de Forcalquier. The tower’s enduring presence speaks volumes about the town's strategic past and its historical significance as a former stronghold in Provence.
Its iconic clock, produced in 1887, replaced a much older timepiece that had been meticulously marking time for over 400 years. This detail perfectly encapsulates Pertuis's unique blend of rich history and continuous evolution, showcasing how modern elements seamlessly integrate with ancient heritage. Visiting this historical landmark provides an excellent starting point for understanding the town's layered past and its architectural evolution.
Adjacent to the donjon stands the beautiful Church of Saint-Nicolas, a significant religious monument dating back to the fifteenth century. This impressive church became the main parish church after the earlier Church of Saint-Pierre was deemed unsafe due to the risk of collapse. The Church of Saint-Nicolas was subsequently expanded to accommodate the growing population, with a fourth nave added in the sixteenth century and a series of southern chapels integrated in the seventeenth century. These extensive additions transformed the church into the grand and architecturally rich building we admire today, reflecting centuries of devotion and community growth in Pertuis.
Continuing our walk by following the delightful streets of Rue Grande and Rue Sain-Jacques, we arrive at the commanding Saint-Jacques Tower (B; GPS: 43.696178, 5.504178), a formidable structure from the 14th century. This tower holds special significance as it is the sole survivor of the seven towers that once fortified the town's defensive walls, offering a stark reminder of Pertuis's medieval fortifications and strategic past. As we delved deeper into the town's narrow streets, we were captivated by the sight of a particularly unique and verdant fountain—the Fontaine de la Diane, also known as the Diana Fountain. Its design is truly original, featuring a simple stone base from which a large limestone rock, lush with moss and various plants, organically emerges. At the very top, a graceful statue of Diana, the goddess of hunting, is depicted with her loyal dog, elegantly overlooking the serene scene.
This charming fountain, built in 1830, is located in the appropriately named Place de la Diane (C; GPS: 43.694975, 5.504766). This picturesque square is a popular gathering spot for locals and visitors alike, especially during the warm summer months, as it is beautifully shaded by ancient plane trees, providing a cool and inviting respite. The tranquil atmosphere, combined with the continuous, soothing sound of the fountain's gently flowing water, makes it an ideal place to sit, relax, and observe the unhurried rhythm of Provençal life. It’s a perfect example of how Pertuis’s historic fountains are not just decorative historical artifacts but living, functional parts of the community, serving as central hubs for social interaction and peaceful contemplation.
Gastronomy in Pertuis
The gastronomy of Pertuis is deeply rooted in the rich culinary traditions of the Luberon and Provence. The town's cuisine is defined by the high-quality local produce, including sun-drenched vegetables, fragrant herbs, and the region's famous olive oil and wine. Dining here is a celebration of fresh, simple, and delicious Mediterranean flavors.
What to Try?
- AOC Luberon Wine: The vineyards surrounding Pertuis produce excellent red, white, and rosé wines under the `AOC Luberon` appellation.
- Local Olive Oil: The region is famous for its olive groves. Be sure to taste the fresh, peppery, and fruity olive oil from local producers.
- Truffles (Truffe du Luberon): In season, you can find the renowned black truffles of the Luberon, often served shaved over pasta or eggs.
- Fruits and Vegetables: The local markets are bursting with fresh produce, including asparagus in spring, melons and tomatoes in summer, and a variety of colorful vegetables.
- Honey and Lavender Products: Taste the local honey, often infused with the scent of lavender and other wild herbs from the Luberon hills.
- Fougasse: A flatbread often decorated with olives or herbs, perfect for a quick snack.
Where to Eat?
- Provençal Bistros and Cafes: Explore the old town's narrow streets to find charming bistros serving traditional dishes and local wine.
- Farmers' Market: Visit the weekly market to buy fresh produce and prepared foods directly from local producers.
- Olive Oil Mills: Many local mills offer tastings and sell their products, providing a chance to learn about the production process.
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