Brno, Czechia (Czech Republic)
We had the pleasure of visiting Brno, the Czech Republic's second-largest city and the vibrant heart of Moravia. This dynamic city stands as a significant cultural, scientific, and tourist hub. Brno's Old Town is particularly captivating, brimming with a rich array of Gothic and Baroque monuments and historic buildings that tell tales of centuries past.
Parking in Brno
We arrived in Brno via the D1 highway, taking exit number 203 to head into the city. A highly convenient option for parking near the Old Town is the "Parkovací dům Rozmarýn" parking garage on Kounicova street (1; GPS: 49.199784, 16.605124). We initially planned to park there, but it happened to be undergoing renovation at the time (rest assured, the renovation is now complete, and the parking lot is fully accessible). So, we drove just 200 meters further to Mezírka street, where we discovered the Hotel Continental, which offers an underground garage (2; GPS: 49.200854, 16.604900). Additionally, in the vicinity of the Old Town, another excellent underground parking facility, "JD Parking Brno," provides further parking options (3; GPS: 49.199196, 16.609622), ensuring visitors can find a convenient spot for their vehicle.
Strolling the Old Town
After leaving the parking lot, we headed directly towards the charming Old Town by walking along Rašínová street. On our left, we passed the impressive Church of Saint Thomas and a striking equestrian statue (A; GPS: 49.1975828, 16.6074867) depicting Jodok, also known as Jobst of Moravia, a significant ruler from the Luxembourg dynasty. Our stroll continued past the historic Church of St. Jacob (B; GPS: 49.1964578, 16.6078192), which boasts particularly interesting interior architecture, inviting a closer look.
Náměstí Svobody - the Square of Liberty
Our walk led us to the first, and indeed the main, square in Brno: the expansive Náměstí Svobody, or Square of Liberty (C; GPS: 49.1949714, 16.6083072). Dominating the square is a notable plague column dating from the 17th century, a testament to historical resilience. The square itself is encircled by a collection of intriguing and beautifully decorative buildings, among which the most exquisite is undoubtedly the Dům pánů z Lipé, or House of the Lords of Lipá, also known as the Schwanz Palace. This magnificent 16th-century Renaissance building was originally constructed for Kryštof Schwanz of Retz, a prominent wine merchant, and its entire facade is adorned with splendid, intricate decorations. Also gracing the square is an uniquely shaped astronomical clock, affectionately known as "Brněnský orloj." An interesting and much-anticipated tradition is that every day at 11:00 AM, the clock releases a glass ball, which anyone who catches can keep as a souvenir. The distinctive shape of the clock and the glass ball are symbolic references to the city's heroic defense during the Swedish Deluge, a historical period when the armed forces of Sweden reached this far in the past.
Towards the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul
Our journey continued towards the iconic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul ("Katedrála svatého Petra a Pavla"), majestically situated on Petrov Hill. Along Dominikánská street, we passed another historically significant site: the Dům pánů z Kunštátu, or House of the Lords of Kunštát (D; GPS: 49.1932869, 16.6063931). This grand palace was once owned by Jan of Pernštejn and underwent a significant reconstruction in the Renaissance style at the close of the 16th century. Dominikánská street then seamlessly transitions into Biskupska street, leading us directly to the cathedral, which stands proudly on its small hill. The awe-inspiring cathedral, originally from the 13th century (E; GPS: 49.1912150, 16.6072244), is a stunning example of Gothic architecture, with its soaring forms reaching towards the sky. Its current majestic appearance is also a result of a late 19th-century reconstruction, during which the church's impressive towers were completed. Stepping inside, visitors are further captivated by its equally awesome interiors, which, interestingly, feature a rich Baroque style, contrasting beautifully with its Gothic exterior.
Zelný trh - the Cabbage Market (or Vegetable Market)
After our visit to the cathedral, we descended to the next vibrant square, which is traditionally home to a bustling fruit and vegetable market, known in Czech as "zelný trh" (F; GPS: 49.1922878, 16.6086461). Dominating the center of the square is a beautiful monument of thanksgiving: the Sloup Nejsvětější Trojice (the Holy Trinity Column), an intricately sculpted piece from the early 18th century. Directly opposite, you can admire the "Dietrichsteinský palác," or the Dietrichstein Palace, which now serves as the distinguished home of the Museum of the Moravian Region, offering further cultural enrichment.
Stará radnice - the Old Town Hall
We departed from the lively Vegetable Market onto Radnicka street, and after a brief walk of about 100 meters, we encountered, on our left, the venerable building of the Old Town Hall, known in Czech as "Stará radnice" (G; GPS: 49.1931433, 16.6087211). This significant structure holds the distinction of being the oldest secular building in Brno, with its origins tracing back to the 13th century. It served as the city's town hall until 1935. Currently, it functions as a vibrant cultural and information center, and notably, it houses the peculiar and famous "Brno dragon"—which, to visitors' surprise, is actually a stuffed crocodile, a cherished local legend. Another fascinating detail is the intricate Gothic decorative border of the main entrance door on the building's facade. Its ingenious creator playfully designed one of the turrets to distinctly lean towards the other one, demonstrating that even in the Middle Ages, some artists delightfully challenged conventional architectural rules.
The Špilberk Castle (Hrad Špilberk)
The pinnacle of our visit to Brno was an excursion to the hill crowned by the magnificent Špilberk Castle. A pleasant 15-minute walk from the Old Town leads directly to the castle, offering a rewarding experience.
It is widely believed that the castle was constructed in the latter half of the 13th century. Its strategically advantageous position made it an exceptionally effective fortress, proving difficult to conquer throughout history. Initially, it served as a royal residence, and subsequently, as the residence of Moravian margraves. Over time, the imposing structure evolved into a formidable military object and a key defensive stronghold. For a period, it functioned as a harsh prison, before Špilberk, along with the city walls, was integrated into a larger defensive system. In the mid-19th century, it once again served as a prison, cementing its stern reputation. During World War II, the fortress was occupied by German forces. Since the 1960s, Špilberk Castle has proudly housed a branch of the Brno municipal museum. Visitors can immerse themselves in the rich history of the site, explore various exhibitions, and view compelling photographs detailing Brno's former architecture. The castle also features fascinating dungeons and a commanding lookout tower, offering panoramic views of the city and its surroundings.
Gastronomy in Brno
Brno's culinary scene is a vibrant fusion of traditional Moravian flavors and modern gastronomic trends, reflecting its status as a major Czech city. Expect hearty dishes, excellent local beers, and a growing number of innovative restaurants.
What to Try?
- Traditional Czech/Moravian Cuisine: Look for classics like "Svíčková na smetaně" (marinated sirloin with cream sauce and dumplings), "Vepřo-knedlo-zelo" (roast pork with dumplings and sauerkraut), and "Guláš" (goulash).
- Brno's Regional Specialties: Try "Brněnský řízek" (Brno-style schnitzel), which is typically a larger, breaded cutlet.
- Beer: Moravia, like Bohemia, is famous for its beer. Sample local pilsners and dark lagers. Many pubs brew their own.
- Street Food: On squares like Zelný trh, you might find stalls offering traditional sausages (klobásy) or trdelník (sweet pastry).
- Moravian Wine: While the Czech Republic is known for beer, Moravia is the country's primary wine-growing region, producing excellent white wines. Don't miss the opportunity to try local varieties.
Where to Eat?
- Butcher's & Bistro Naše Maso: (Jezuitská 10/10, 602 00 Brno-střed) This highly popular spot, with an exceptional 4.6/5 rating on Google Maps from over 3000 reviews, is known for its high-quality meat dishes, including excellent burgers, steaks, and traditional Czech sausages. It's a must-visit for meat lovers, often with a lively atmosphere.
- Restaurace U Medvidku: (Panská 17, 602 00 Brno-střed) Offering a mix of traditional Czech cuisine and a very popular microbrewery, this restaurant has a solid 4.3/5 rating on Google Maps from over 2500 reviews. It's a great place to experience classic Czech hospitality and local brews.
- Výtopna Railway Restaurant: (Dominikánské náměstí 100/3, 602 00 Brno-střed) A unique and entertaining experience, this restaurant (rated 4.4/5 on Google Maps from over 1800 reviews) delivers food and drinks to your table via model trains. It offers a range of international and Czech dishes, perfect for families and those looking for something different.
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For a delightful café experience:
Mitte: (Panská 13, 602 00 Brno-střed) A trendy and popular café (4.5/5 on Google Maps from over 800 reviews) known for its excellent coffee, relaxed atmosphere, and delicious cakes and light meals. It's a perfect spot for a break in the Old Town.
Brno's gastronomy offers a rich tapestry of flavors, from traditional Moravian comfort food to modern culinary delights, ensuring a satisfying experience for every palate.
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