Nyons, Provence, France
While the best melons in France may come from Cavaillon, it is an undeniable fact that the most celebrated black olives hail from Nyons. This town is rightfully known as the French capital of olives, famous for its unique and prized cultivar called 'Tanche'. The olive tree itself is a symbol of Provence and a subject worthy of a separate article, but for now, we will delve into the charms of the village of Nyons itself. Located in the heart of the Drôme Provençale, Nyons is surrounded by a sea of silver-green olive groves, which have shaped its landscape, economy, and culture for centuries. The town's unique microclimate, protected from the strong Mistral wind by the surrounding mountains, creates the perfect conditions for growing this special olive.
The 'Tanche' olive of Nyons is a protected product with an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC), a testament to its quality and regional identity. These olives are famous for their wrinkled appearance and rich, buttery flavor, whether eaten as a table olive or pressed into the town's renowned olive oil. As you explore Nyons, you will find that the olive is not just a product; it's a way of life. The town is home to numerous olive mills and shops dedicated to olive products, from oils and spreads to soaps and cosmetics. This deep connection to the olive tree gives Nyons a unique character and a charming authenticity that is deeply rooted in the land.
Parking in Nyons
On the day of our visit, we happened to arrive during a lively market day, which meant that all the central parking spaces, such as those at 1 (GPS: 44.361557, 5.140100) and 2 (GPS: 44.360052, 5.139289), were completely occupied by bustling stalls and vendors. This is a common occurrence on market days, but it simply adds to the vibrant atmosphere. As a result, we had to find a slightly more distant parking lot at 3 (GPS: 44.362133, 5.132745). While it was a little further from the center, the walk back was very manageable and allowed us to see more of the town as we approached the main attractions. It’s always a good idea to arrive early on a market day to secure a spot closer to the center, but even a short walk is a pleasure in this beautiful village.
The old town
The first remarkable landmark to visit in the old town is the stunning medieval bridge, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture. Built between the 14th and 15th centuries, this impressive structure connects the two banks of the Eygues river (A; GPS: 44.360042, 5.143993). With a length of 43 meters and a majestic single arch rising 18 meters high, the bridge is not merely a monument but remains fully functional, as we even saw cars driving across it. From its vantage point, you can enjoy beautiful panoramic views of the tranquil river below and the charming rooftops of the old town. This historic bridge is a symbol of Nyons and provides a perfect starting point for your exploration.
After crossing the bridge, we entered the captivating maze of narrow streets that are so typical of a Provençal village. We leisurely strolled through the ancient city, making several wonderful discoveries along the way. We passed an 18th-century chapel with an interesting tower known as Randonne (B; GPS: 44.362262, 5.140967), the ruins of an old 14th-century castle (C; GPS: 44.36133068, 5.14107833), and the beautiful main square, Place des Arcades (D; GPS: 44.360734, 5.140375), with its medieval arcades. The Provencal market we stumbled upon was a highlight of the day, with its vibrant colors, delicious aromas, and bustling energy. This labyrinthine old town is a joy to explore on foot, with every turn revealing a new fountain, a hidden courtyard, or a small artisan shop.
The charm of Nyons extends beyond its main landmarks to its many hidden gems. You can discover the medieval 'Rue des Boucheries', a narrow street that retains its historic character, or find a tranquil spot by the river to watch the world go by. The town's atmosphere is relaxed and authentic, offering a true taste of Provençal life away from the more crowded coastal areas. Visiting on market day is a treat, as the streets come alive with local producers selling their goods, from fragrant herbs and cheeses to, of course, every type of olive product imaginable. It's an experience that engages all the senses and truly captures the essence of Nyons.
Gastronomy in Nyons
As the "capital of olives," Nyons' gastronomy is, of course, centered around its famous 'Tanche' olive and the exceptional olive oil it produces. The local cuisine is a perfect representation of authentic Provençal flavors, simple yet rich, with a deep connection to the local produce and traditions.
What to Try?
- Nyons Olives and Olive Oil: This is non-negotiable. Try the wrinkled black olives of Nyons, with their unique nutty flavor, and sample the local olive oil, which has a fruity, mild taste. You can buy them directly from producers at the market or in specialized shops.
- Tapenade: A quintessential Provençal spread. In Nyons, it's made with the local olives, creating a rich and savory paste that is perfect on fresh bread.
- Goat Cheese (Chèvre): The surrounding Drôme region is known for its excellent goat cheeses. You can find fresh or aged varieties at the market, which pair wonderfully with olive oil and bread.
- Lavender Honey: As you are in the heart of Provence, try the local honey, especially lavender honey, which has a distinct floral flavor and aroma.
- Wine: The region is known for its wines, particularly from the Côtes du Rhône appellation. Pair your meal with a local red, white, or rosé.
Where to Eat?
The town offers a variety of dining options, from charming cafes in the main square to traditional restaurants hidden in the old town alleys.
- Place des Arcades: The square is lined with restaurants and cafes, offering a perfect spot to enjoy a meal or a coffee under the arches while soaking in the atmosphere.
- Market Stalls: On market days, you can taste a wide variety of local products directly from the producers, from olives and cheeses to fresh bread and pastries.
- Traditional Restaurants (Auberges): Look for small, family-run restaurants that serve classic Provençal dishes, often featuring local ingredients in their seasonal menus.
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