Avignon: Rue des Teinturiers, France
Rue des Teinturiers (Dyers' Street) is Avignon's best-kept secret - a picturesque cobblestone lane following the Sorgue River, lined with historic water wheels, trendy boutiques, and charming cafés. This 600-meter-long street embodies Avignon's rich textile history while offering a tranquil escape from the city's busier tourist areas. With its combination of medieval architecture, flowing canals, and vibrant cultural scene, it's no wonder locals consider this the most enchanting street in the city.
How to get there
The street begins approximately 600m (10-minute walk) from Avignon's center. From the intersection of Rue de la République and Rue Favrat (A; GPS: 43.948714, 4.805955), follow Place du Changé onto Rue Rougue, then Rue Bonneterie until you reach Rue des Lices. Here begins the magical Rue des Teinturiers (B; GPS: 43.946034, 4.811912), which ends at the old town walls (G; 43.945047, 4.815636).
This scenic route takes you past several notable landmarks, including 17th-century townhouses and the former Jewish quarter. The walk is mostly flat with some uneven cobblestones - comfortable shoes are recommended. For a more atmospheric approach, take the small pedestrian bridge near Chapel of the Grey Penitents to enter the street midway, where the water wheels create a particularly photogenic scene.
Church of the Cordeliers
At the street's entrance stands the Church of the Cordeliers (C; 43.945746, 4.812011), where Petrarch's beloved Laura was reportedly buried in 1348. Don't miss the unique carved stone benches lining the street, each with distinctive medieval motifs.
This 14th-century Franciscan church played an important role in Avignon's intellectual life during the papal period. While partially ruined, its Gothic choir and cloister remnants are worth exploring. The adjacent garden features ancient mulberry trees, remnants of Avignon's silk industry. Local legend claims the benches were commissioned by wealthy dyers for their workers to rest during breaks.
Nice bars and cafes
The street brims with atmospheric cafés where you can dine alongside the gurgling Sorgue. Our favorite, "Cave des Pas Sages" (D; GPS: 43.945217, 4.812938), serves exceptional coffee in a vaulted stone cellar with river views. Their homemade lemonade is equally refreshing on hot summer days.
For a truly Provençal experience, try these gems:
- L'Ubu - Creative small plates with local wines (€15-25)
- Le Bercail - Riverside terrace serving traditional daube (€20-30)
- Les 5 Sens - Artisanal ice cream with lavender flavor
Most cafés offer shaded outdoor seating perfect for watching the water wheels turn while you eat. Evening is particularly magical when the wheels are illuminated.
Interesting buildings
Architectural highlights include:
- The Chapel of the Grey Penitents (C; GPS: 43.945473, 4.812768), blending Renaissance and Neoclassical elements
- The house of Jean-Henri Fabre (E; GPS: 43.944945, 4.813141), where the famous entomologist wrote his insect studies
- The enigmatic "Maison du IV de Chiffre" (F; GPS: 43.944995, 4.813879), with its mysterious numerical carving dating to 1493
The Maison du IV de Chiffre is particularly intriguing - scholars speculate the "IV" symbol might represent a medieval cloth merchant's mark or alchemical symbol. Its Gothic windows and carved doorway make it one of Avignon's finest surviving medieval residences. The Fabre house now hosts temporary art exhibitions about nature and science.
Water wheels
The street's iconic water wheels powered Avignon's thriving textile industry. Of the original 23 wheels, four remain - silent witnesses to centuries when this was the center of silk, wool, and later Indian-inspired cotton production. The largest wheel near the Chapel of the Grey Penitents still turns daily.
These oak-and-iron wheels date mainly from the 19th century, though the technology was used here since the 15th century. They harnessed the Sorgue's strong current to operate fulling mills for wool and spinning machines for silk. On summer weekends, artisans sometimes demonstrate traditional textile techniques using replica equipment. The best photo spot is by the double wheels near the street's midpoint.
Local Tips
Visit early morning to see the wheels in golden light with fewer crowds. The street hosts a charming antiques market on first Sundays (April-October). Don't miss the boutique Soierie Saint-Jean for silk scarves using traditional patterns. For literary fans, the annual Petrarch Festival in July features poetry readings along the riverbank.
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