Split, Croatia
Split is a vibrant and historically significant city located on the stunning Adriatic coast of Croatia, right in the heart of the Dalmatia region. It stands as a major tourist hub, drawing visitors from all over the world, much like its famous counterpart, Dubrovnik. The city's primary allure lies in its exceptionally well-preserved remnants of Roman times, which are seamlessly integrated into the bustling modern cityscape. At its core is the magnificent palace of Emperor Diocletian, a UNESCO World Heritage site that forms the very fabric of the Old Town.
Throughout its long and fascinating history, Split has been under the rule of various empires and countries, a legacy that has contributed to its unique and diverse architectural landscape. This rich tapestry of history, from Roman foundations to Venetian influences and beyond, makes Split a captivating destination where every alleyway tells a story and every corner reveals a new layer of its past.
Parking in Split
While some Croatian cities offer simple parking solutions, Split presents a more challenging situation for tourists arriving by car. The parking policy, particularly around the popular Old Town, is unfortunately inadequate for the high volume of visitors. Despite the presence of several parking lots, most are quite small and fill up very quickly.
The only relatively large parking lot in the area is Vanulično parking Svačićeva, located at 18 Petra Svačića street (1, GPS: 43.5125619, 16.4381542). We had learned about its location and size in advance and decided to arrive early to secure a spot. However, our plan was met with an unexpected surprise: upon our arrival at 8:50, the parking lot was already completely full, even though we visited after the peak tourist season!
This led us to circle around for a frustrating 20 minutes before we finally managed to find a free space tucked away in a hidden corner. We later learned at the ticket office that 80% of the spots are occupied by locals who come to work or conduct business, meaning you need to arrive before 8:00 in the morning to comfortably find a space. This experience highlights the challenges for motorized tourists visiting the city, especially during the high season, and might encourage visitors to consider alternative transport or accommodation with private parking.
If you are unlucky and cannot find a free space in this parking lot, try the others: Stari Plac (2, GPS: 43.5125492, 16.4359870), Parking Kućica (3, GPS: 43.5112375, 16.4423925) or Parking Bijankinijeva (4, GPS: 43.5053725, 16.4449164). There is also a larger parking lot, Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice, located more to the north (5, GPS: 43.5157953, 16.4404719), but unfortunately it is not paved, so after or during rainfall, the surface turns to mud, which can be quite inconvenient.
The Old Town in Split
Fortunately, the stress caused by looking for a parking space in Split is more than compensated for by the incredible experience of its Old Town. From the Svačićeva parking lot, we walked down Ćiril-Metodova street towards the beautiful Trg Gaje Bulata square, which led us directly into the heart of the historic center. Following Domaldova street, we soon reached the lively Narodni Trg square (A, GPS: 43.5089761, 16.4385772), also known as People’s Square. This vibrant hub is home to several inviting restaurants and cafés, where we took a well-deserved break to enjoy a pleasant breakfast. The square is dominated by the beautiful building of the former town hall from the 15th century, which now houses a museum, showcasing the city's rich municipal history.
From there, we continued our stroll along the streets Ispod ure and kralja Petra Krešimira lV, passing by the impressive Iron Gate (Porta Ferrea) (B, GPS: 43.5087155, 16.4393148) along the way. This interesting historical object is one of the four main gates that led into the palace during Roman times. The gate’s unique design, featuring a clock tower added in the Middle Ages, beautifully illustrates the city's continuous evolution over two millennia.
Diocletian's Palace
Diocletian's Palace is truly an architectural marvel and a living monument. The sprawling complex includes the remarkably preserved Roman Temple of Jupiter (C, GPS: 43.5083551, 16.4395507), a testament to the city’s pagan roots, and the palace's central and most important square for tourists, the Peristyle (D, GPS: 43.5082272, 16.4401489). This magnificent colonnaded courtyard is where everyone gathers to soak in the ancient atmosphere and admire the surrounding structures. In fact, even in the off-season, there is a lively crowd here, a mix of locals and visitors enjoying a coffee on the stone steps. To the left as you enter from the north, you'll see the stunning Cathedral of Saint Domnius, which was originally built as Emperor Diocletian's mausoleum. From its almost 60-meter-high bell tower, there is a truly amazing and unforgettable view of the entire city and the beautiful Adriatic bay.
From the Peristyle, we entered the fascinating palace underground (E, GPS: 43.5077836, 16.4398861), a network of ancient corridors and halls that at first glance reminded us of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, albeit on a much smaller scale. In the basement, you will find a labyrinth of shops and stalls selling a wide array of souvenirs, handicrafts, and other interesting (and sometimes kitschy) items. This bustling marketplace adds a unique, vibrant energy to the ancient ruins, creating a fascinating blend of history and commerce.
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda
From the palace's underground, you can walk straight out onto the beautiful promenade known as the Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda (Croatian National Rebirth Coast) (F, GPS: 43.5075814, 16.4390975). This seaside boulevard was a busy street until the 1990s but was later beautifully transformed into a pedestrian-friendly promenade. It is now the city's main social hub, where people gather to stroll, sit on benches, and enjoy the sea breeze. New Year's concerts and various cultural events are held here, making it a vibrant center of city life. Because the promenade runs along the seashore, you are treated to a nice view of the entire bay, with ferries and boats coming and going.
Trg republike
We walk the promenade towards the Trg republike square (G, GPS: 43.5089450, 16.4363081), which is surrounded by beautiful red-roofed buildings with arches. The square immediately brought to mind St. Mark's Square in Venice, and our intuition was correct, as it was intentionally designed as its smaller, more intimate copy. This spacious square hosts concerts and festivals throughout the year, but it's also a wonderful place to simply sit at a café and enjoy a coffee. When in Split, a visit to this architecturally stunning and serene square is an absolute must.
Šuma Marjan Park
If you still have some free time, you should definitely visit the beautiful Šuma Marjan Park, located on a hillside just west of the city center. This lush green oasis offers various viewpoints, a botanical garden, and other attractions. The park's entrance is about 800 meters from the city center (H, GPS: 43.5077817, 16.4303319), but be prepared for a walk uphill. The park is approximately 4 kilometers long and provides a refreshing escape from the city's hustle and bustle. At its far end, you will find the oceanography and fisheries research institute. If you prefer to go by car, you can use the asphalt road that encircles the entire park area, making it accessible to all.
The park is truly vast and offers many opportunities for recreation. You can spend many hours here walking, jogging, or cycling along its shaded paths. The park also boasts several public beaches, inviting you to take a refreshing dip in the Adriatic Sea, as well as picturesque picnic areas and breathtaking viewpoints that offer spectacular panoramas of Split and the surrounding islands.
Gastronomy in Split
Split's culinary scene is a delightful journey through the flavors of Dalmatia and the Mediterranean, defined by fresh seafood, high-quality olive oil, and aromatic herbs. The city's restaurants, from casual taverns (konobas) to fine-dining establishments, offer a wide range of dishes that are a testament to the region's rich gastronomic heritage. The proximity to the sea means that fresh fish and seafood are staples, often prepared simply with olive oil, garlic, and parsley to let the natural flavors shine.
When dining here, be sure to try local specialties like peka (meat or octopus slow-cooked under a bell-shaped dome), grilled fish, and pašticada (Dalmatian pot roast). The region is also famous for its excellent wines, particularly red wines from the Plavac Mali grape and crisp white wines. You can enjoy a taste of local life by visiting the Green Market (Pazar) near the palace, where farmers sell fresh produce, cheese, and cured meats. It’s the perfect place to pick up ingredients for a picnic or simply to experience the lively atmosphere.
After a day of exploring, enjoying a coffee or a glass of local wine on the beautiful Riva promenade is a favorite pastime for both locals and tourists. The restaurants around Narodni Trg and other squares offer a great opportunity to enjoy a meal in a historic setting, providing a perfect end to a day of sightseeing.
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