Mornas, Provence, France
Mornas is a charming small Provençal town situated approximately 40 km north of Avignon. The town is a delightful blend of ancient buildings and fascinating gates, with the most notable being the picturesque Gate of Saint-Nicholas. Perched majestically above the old town is the impressive Forteresse de Mornas, a fortress that is a striking sight, even from the highway. This magnificent stronghold, with its rich history, is open to visitors and offers a unique glimpse into the region's medieval past. Its presence dominates the landscape, inviting travelers to step back in time and explore its storied walls.
Walking through Mornas is like taking a step into a living postcard of Provence. The town's historic core, nestled at the foot of its formidable fortress, exudes an authentic charm that is both tranquil and captivating. Every street and building tells a story, and the architecture reflects centuries of local life and history. The strategic location of the town, guarding a crucial passage along the Rhône river, has shaped its destiny, and its well-preserved gates and walls serve as silent guardians of its heritage. This is a place where you can escape the hustle and bustle of modern life and simply enjoy the peaceful, sun-drenched atmosphere of a classic Provençal village.
Parking in Mornas
The town is conveniently located along the N7 national road, making it easily accessible. A free parking lot is available nearby, where you can safely leave your car (1; GPS: 44.2017317, 4.7267692). From there, a quick walk across the road is all it takes to enter the historic heart of the town. This hassle-free parking solution allows you to begin your exploration without any delay, a significant advantage in a busy tourist region. The designated parking area is spacious enough to accommodate visitors even during peak season, ensuring a stress-free start to your visit. The short distance from the car park to the old town allows you to immediately immerse yourself in the charm of Mornas.
The old town
We begin our stroll by walking down Cours des Platanes to Place de la Fontaine, where a beautiful fountain welcomes visitors with its refreshing waters. To access the heart of the old town, you pass through the magnificent Saint-Nicholas gate from the 14th century (A; GPS: 44.202098, 4.728555), a true architectural gem. Once inside the walls, you are greeted by a charming labyrinth of narrow, winding streets, a typical and delightful feature of medieval towns. As we navigate the main thoroughfare, Grand Rue, we pass the town hall (B; GPS: 44.203053, 4.727581) and the beautiful 19th-century St Georges church (C; GPS: 44.203518, 4.727670).
Throughout the old town, small squares feature the quintessential Provençal fountains, providing a soothing soundtrack to your walk. From a distance, you can always see the hill upon which the Forteresse de Mornas was built, a constant reminder of the town's historical significance. It is a quiet village, and during our visit, we rarely encountered any residents, as if all of the town's life was concentrated at the local Café de la Poste (D; GPS: 44.202009, 4.728190). We decided to join them for a while, enjoying a coffee and a sweet dessert, which was the perfect way to experience a slice of authentic local life. The quiet streets and the relaxed pace make Mornas an ideal destination for a peaceful and reflective visit.
Forteresse de Mornas
The Mornas fortress (E; GPS: 44.2055456, 4.7290289) is a medieval masterpiece with a long and fascinating history. It was originally built in the 11th century and its first owners were the powerful counts of Toulouse, who used its strategic position to control the Rhône Valley. However, by the end of the sixteenth century, the fortress gradually fell into a state of neglect and oblivion. In a remarkable turn of events, a dedicated restoration project began in 1977 and continues to this day, bringing this magnificent structure back to life. The restoration efforts are particularly impressive as they've been done with great care to preserve the fortress's original character and historical integrity.
The fortress is open to visitors, offering a truly immersive experience, including a guided tour in the form of a lively medieval reenactment. Ticket prices for adults are 5€, and for children up to 11 years old, they are 3€ (prices as of 2018 - please check the official website for current rates). A dedicated parking lot is available near the fortress, where you can leave your car (2; GPS: 44.2040072, 4.7302036). From there, a short, scenic path leads you directly to the entrance of the fortress ruins. The visit is highly recommended as it provides spectacular views of the surrounding area and a fascinating insight into medieval life.
Gastronomy in Mornas
The gastronomy of Mornas, much like the rest of Provence, is a celebration of sun-drenched flavors, fresh ingredients, and aromatic herbs. The local cuisine is simple yet incredibly rich, reflecting the region's agricultural bounty and Mediterranean climate.
What to Try?
- Provençal Cuisine: Expect classic Provençal dishes, such as ratatouille (a vegetable stew), tapenade (an olive spread), and various preparations of lamb, which is a regional specialty.
- Local Produce: The nearby markets offer a bounty of fresh produce, including tomatoes, zucchini, aubergines, and aromatic herbs like thyme and rosemary. Enjoy dishes that highlight these seasonal ingredients.
- Olive Oil: The region is famous for its high-quality olive oil. Don't miss the chance to taste and purchase some from a local producer.
- Goat Cheese (Chèvre): Local farms produce excellent goat cheeses, often served fresh with bread or aged for a stronger flavor.
- Côtes du Rhône Wines: Mornas is located near the Southern Rhône wine region, so you will find an excellent selection of local red, white, and rosé wines to pair with your meal.
Where to Eat?
While Mornas is a small town, it offers a few charming dining options, with more choices available in the nearby larger towns.
- Café de la Poste: As mentioned in the description, this cafe is a central gathering spot and a perfect place for a coffee, a pastry, or a light snack, offering a glimpse into local life.
- Local Restaurants in the Old Town: Explore the narrow streets for small, family-run restaurants that serve traditional, homemade dishes in a cozy setting.
- Restaurants near the N7 Road: You may find some casual eateries and pizzerias along the main road that are convenient for a quick meal.
- Picnic: Take advantage of the scenic surroundings by creating your own picnic with local products. Grab some fresh bread, cheese, olives, and charcuterie from a local market and enjoy a meal with a view of the fortress.
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