Bonnieux, Provence, France
Bonnieux is a charming village nestled within the heart of Luberon, uniquely perched atop a picturesque hill. It lies approximately 10 km from Lourmarin, 8 km from Goult, 12 km from Apt, and 14 km from Gordes. This captivating location is well worth a visit, offering breathtaking panoramic views from its elevated position, the tranquility of a nearby cedar forest, and a selection of delightful cafes and restaurants that invite visitors to relax and savor the Provençal atmosphere.
Parking in Bonnieux
It is worth noting that Bonnieux, being a traditional hilltop village, does not feature extensive large parking lots specifically dedicated to tourists. However, convenient options are available. You can utilize a small parking area situated at Place Gambetta (1; GPS: 43.824001, 5.307401). Alternatively, we found it convenient to park directly on the street along the D36 road (2; GPS: 43.823929, 5.308665). This spot not only provided easy parking but also offered immediate picturesque views of the surrounding countryside, serving as an excellent starting point for our stroll through the village.
The Old Town
As is customary with such enchanting Provençal villages, our visit involves leisurely strolling through the narrow, winding streets, admiring the beautifully preserved old houses, some of which date back to the sixteenth century. A highlight of the visit is the climb up a series of stone steps (86 in total) to the very top of the hill, where the historic 12th-century church is located. This is affectionately known as the "old church" (A; GPS: 43.823008, 5.308706), distinguishing it from the "new church" (B; GPS: 43.824763, 5.307360) built in the 19th century in the lower parts of the village. The old church tower stands proudly at an altitude of 425 meters, surrounded by magnificent cedar trees. From this elevated position, visitors are rewarded with truly spectacular panoramic views of the Luberon surroundings, including the distant silhouette of Mont Ventoux on the horizon, approximately 40 km away, creating a breathtaking vista.
Also within the old town, housed in a charming 17th-century building, is the fascinating Bakery Museum (Musée de la Boulangerie) (C; GPS: 43.822637, 5.307886). If you have any interest in bread-making, this museum is an absolute must-visit, offering insights into the history and art of baking. Admission tickets are priced at 3.5€ for adults and 1.5€ for children and seniors.
Pont Julien
Just 6 km north of Bonnieux and 5 km south of Roussillon, you'll find Pont Julien (the Julien Bridge) (D; GPS: 43.8625478, 5.3065197), an exceptionally well-preserved ancient Roman bridge located in the heart of Luberon, France. This impressive structure was meticulously built by the Romans in 3 BC. What makes this bridge truly remarkable is its construction: it is entirely built of natural stones, expertly placed without the use of mortar, a testament to Roman engineering prowess. Even today, the Pont Julien remains in remarkably good technical condition and is still actively used by pedestrians and cyclists, offering a unique opportunity to traverse history.
You can drive almost right up to the bridge. Approximately 50 meters from its south side, there is a specially designated parking lot with space for about a dozen cars (3; GPS: 43.8617464, 5.30669317), making it very convenient for visitors wishing to see this ancient marvel.
Gastronomy in Bonnieux
Bonnieux, like many villages in the Luberon region, offers a delightful culinary experience deeply rooted in Provençal traditions. The local restaurants and cafes pride themselves on using fresh, seasonal ingredients from the surrounding fertile lands, often paired with excellent local wines.
What to Try?
- Provençal Cuisine: Expect dishes rich in olive oil, garlic, sun-ripened tomatoes, and aromatic herbs like thyme, rosemary, and savory. Look for specialties such as ratatouille, tapenade, aioli, and various lamb or beef stews.
- Truffles: During the winter months (typically November to March), the Luberon region is known for its black truffles, which might feature in seasonal dishes.
- Local Produce: The area is abundant with fresh vegetables and fruits. Depending on the season, you might find cherries, apricots, melons, and asparagus.
- Luberon Wines: Bonnieux is in the heart of a wine-producing region. Sample local Côtes du Luberon wines, particularly the rosés and reds.
- Goat Cheese (Chèvre): Local goat cheeses are a staple in Provence, often served fresh or grilled.
Where to Eat?
- Restaurant La Bergerie: (Route de Lourmarin, 84480 Bonnieux) Located just outside the main village, this restaurant is highly acclaimed, boasting an impressive 4.5/5 rating on Google Maps from over 500 reviews. It's known for its refined Provençal cuisine, beautiful setting, and often features a stunning terrace with panoramic views of the Luberon valley. It's an excellent choice for a memorable dining experience.
- Restaurant L'Auberge de la Fontaine: (Place de la Fontaine, 84480 Bonnieux) Situated in the heart of the village, this charming auberge enjoys a very good reputation, with an average rating of 4.3/5 on Google Maps from over 300 reviews. It offers traditional French and Provençal dishes in a cozy, authentic atmosphere, often with outdoor seating near a fountain.
- Le Fournil: (Place du 4 Septembre, 84480 Bonnieux) This bakery and patisserie (often rated 4.6/5 on Google Maps from over 100 reviews) is not a full restaurant but is a must-visit for breakfast, a quick lunch, or an afternoon snack. It offers fresh bread, delicious pastries, sandwiches, and local specialties. It's perfect for a casual bite or to pick up some treats.
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For a coffee or casual drink:
Cafe de France: (Place Gambetta, 84480 Bonnieux) Located on one of the main squares, this cafe is a quintessential village spot. While it might not have hundreds of specific online reviews as a dedicated restaurant, such central cafes are highly frequented by locals and tourists for coffee, light bites, and people-watching (typically rating well for location and authentic ambiance, often 4/5 or higher). It's an ideal place to experience the relaxed pace of Provençal life.
Bonnieux's gastronomy perfectly complements its breathtaking scenery and historical charm, ensuring a truly immersive Provençal experience.
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